Bluegills are beloved by anglers across North America. Many of us—this author included—got our start catching them in farm ponds and creeks, and bluegills can be found in every U.S. state outside of Alaska. Because of their popularity and prevalence, many people lump bluegills in with other sunfish. (Anglers are also guilty of this.) They’ll use these names interchangeably, referring to any sunfish as a bluegill when it might actually be a longear, a redbreast, or some other member of the sunfish family. To avoid this confusion, we’ve compiled a guide that compares sunfish vs bluegill and offers some tips on how to correctly identify them all.

Why the Confusion?

The confusion between sunfish vs bluegill stems from the fact that every bluegill is a sunfish, but not every sunfish is a bluegill. In other words, the term “bluegill” refers to one species, while “sunfish” refers to a family of more than 30 different freshwater species that are native to North America.

Overview of the Sunfish Family

The sunfish family (Centrarchidae) comprises eight different genera or branches. The majority of anglers will be most familiar with the last three of these branches as they include several popular game fish species:

• Sacramento perch (Archoplites)*
• Mud sunfish (Acantharchus)*
• Flier (Centrarchus)*
• Banded sunfish (Enneacanthus): Banded, blackbanded, and blue-spotted sunfish
• Rock bass (Amblopites): Rock bass, shadow bass, Roanoke bass, and Ozark bass
• Crappies (Pomoxis): White crappies and black crappies
• Black bass (Micropterus): 13 species, including smallmouth and largemouth bass
• True sunfish (Lepomis): 13 species, including bluegills, warmouth, and green sunfish

* This genus only has one species.

This article will focus strictly on the true sunfish genus. Many of these species look alike, and this is where most of the confusion occurs when looking at sunfish vs bluegill.

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All true sunfish have a rounded body shape and small mouths, and most species average between three and eight inches long. These small fish are often referred to colloquially as bream or perch, although the latter is actually a misnomer. (Perch belong to a separate family of North American freshwater fish.)

All About Bluegill

Of the 13 true sunfish that inhabit North America, the bluegill (Lepomis macrochirus) is the most abundant, widespread, and commonly caught species. This is why they are so well-known among American anglers, and it’s why people often use bluegill as a catch-all term for several different sunfish species.

Appearance

Like all the other true sunfish, bluegills have rounded, dish-shaped bodies, small mouths, and spiny dorsal fins. The name bluegill derives from the iridescent bluish coloration on the cheek and gill plate. They also have a black earflap, which is one way to distinguish bluegills from other true sunfish species.

Bluegills can vary slightly in color depending on the location and time of year. (Spawning males display brighter, more intense colors, for example.) But they generally have olive backs, copper-orange sides with vertical bars, and reddish-orange or yellow bellies. Their dorsal fins have nine to 12 spines. These spiny fins are connected to softer, rounded dorsal fins that extend almost all the way to their tailfin and have a dark spot at the base.

An adult bluegill has an average length of around seven inches, but due to their oval body shape, these fish can be nearly as tall as they are long. They average around one to two pounds, with the largest individuals growing to more than twice that size. The all-tackle world record bluegill weighed 4 pounds, 12 ounces and was caught from Ketona Lake in Alabama in 1950.

Distribution and Habitat

Bluegills historically occupied a native range that covered most of the Eastern and Central United States. This included the St. Lawrence-Great Lakes and Mississippi River Basins—stretching from Quebec and New York to Minnesota and then south to the Gulf of Mexico—as well as the entire southeast region from Virginia’s Cape Fear River to the Rio Grande in Texas and New Mexico.

Because they’re relatively easy and fun to catch, bluegills have been introduced in every U.S. state except Alaska. Most of these stockings were done by state fish and game agencies. The species has also been introduced to various countries in Europe, Africa, Asia, and South America.   

Bluegills are a warm-water species and they require water temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees F. While they can tolerate low levels of salinity, they are most at home in freshwater ponds and lakes, as well as slow-moving rivers and creeks.

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They prefer areas with lots of aquatic vegetation, and are often found near logs, weed beds, or some other structure (both natural and manmade). Bluegills typically inhabit deeper water, where they tend to congregate in schools. They’re also territorial, and will typically stay within a 300 to 400 square foot area for most of their lives.

Behavior and Habits

Bluegills are voracious and opportunistic carnivores. Their diet consists primarily of insects, tiny crustaceans, zooplankton, and other small prey items. They’ll also prey on leeches and worms, along with minnows and other small baitfish. Bluegills typically feed during daylight hours, and they often move closer to the surface to eat bugs during the mornings and evenings.

Bluegills are also prey to countless larger freshwater species, and they spend most of their lives dodging predators. Bass, muskies, walleyes, and catfish all love to eat bluegills, as do snakes, turtles, herons, and other waterbirds. This is where their spiny dorsal fins come in handy—by extending these spines, they’re harder (and more painful) to swallow.

Adult bluegills spawn in the spring. They build nests for spawning, and will typically nest together in large colonies in shallow water.

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The males build nests by sweeping circular depressions in the lake or stream bed with their tail fins. They’ll swim around these nests to attract females. Once a female’s eggs are released and fertilized, the male is left to guard the nest. After two to five days, the eggs hatch into fry, which are then guarded by the males for another five to 10 days until the fry begin feeding on zooplankton and swim away on their own.

How to Identify Bluegill and Other Common Sunfish Species

It can be difficult to correctly identify each of the 13 true sunfish species. To the untrained eye, they all look very similar. These species also hybridize, which makes identification even more challenging.

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Fortunately, there are some distinguishing features and a few visual markers that can help distinguish a bluegill from another common sunfish. The species that are pictured and included in the table below are the ones that are most often mistaken for bluegills:

Pumpkinseed

Warmouth

Green Sunfish

Redear Sunfish

Longear Sunfish

Redbreast Sunfish

Here’s a basic chart to help with identification:

The other six true sunfish species are easier to distinguish from bluegills. They’re also less common:

• Spotted sunfish
• Orangespotted sunfish
• Redspotted sunfish
• Northern sunfish
• Bantam sunfish
• Dollar sunfish

Sunfish vs Bluegill FAQs

Q: Are bluegills and sunfish the same thing?

Yes and no. All bluegills are sunfish, but not all sunfish are bluegills. The bluegill is just one of more than 30 freshwater species that comprise the sunfish family. There are six other true sunfish species that are often mistaken for bluegill, and those include the pumpkinseed, warmouth, green sunfish, redear sunfish, longear sunfish, and the redbreast. Hybrid bluegills are possible with these species, which makes identification even trickier.

Q: How large is a bluegill?

An average adult bluegill weighs around one or two pounds, but they can exceed four pounds. The biggest bluegills are roughly the size of a small dinner or salad plate.

Q: Are bluegills good to eat?

Yes. Bluegills are abundant and they make great table fare. They have a white, flaky meat with a mild flavor. They’re often filleted and fried in a skillet, or cleaned, descaled and cooked whole. They’re called panfish not just because of their shape, but because they fit in a frying pan.

Final Thoughts on Sunfish vs Bluegill

Remember that “bluegill” refers to a single species, while “sunfish” refers to an entire family of freshwater fishes. Bluegills are the most common and widely known of all the true sunfish.

To distinguish sunfish vs bluegill, look for the dark earflap and the dark spot at the base of their dorsal fin. This is a bluegill. If the fish has both these physical features, along with a dark olive back, a yellow-orange belly, and a bluish jaw and gill plate, it’s most likely a bluegill or a bluegill hybrid.

The post Sunfish vs Bluegill Identification Guide appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Montana is best known for its blue-ribbon trout streams. But as eight-year-old Garin Hicks proved last weekend, the state’s warmwater reservoirs are not to be overlooked.

On May 27, the young angler from Kalispell caught a 13.6-ounce green sunfish from Gartside Reservoir. Hicks’ panfish was just accepted by Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks as a new state record for the species, edging out the previous record by a fraction of an ounce. That record belonged to Bette Schmieding, who caught her 13.4-ounce greenie from Castle Rock Lake in 2009 when she was just three years old.

Both reservoirs are in the eastern part of the state, with Gartside situated a stone’s throw from the Yellowstone River near the North Dakota state line. The reservoir also holds largemouth and smallmouth bass, as well as bluegills, walleyes, and pike.

Green sunfish are an introduced (non-native) species in Montana, according to FWP. They can be found throughout the lower Yellowstone and Little Missouri drainages, where they are “well suited to radically changing conditions found in prairie streams.” The species’ native range stretches from the Great Lakes down to Mexico, and includes all of the Central Plains west of the Appalachian Mountains and east of the Rocky Mountains.

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As the agency points out, these “hardy little fish” rarely exceed five inches in length. This makes Hicks’ 10-inch green sunfish a whopper by Montana standards. The IGFA all-tackle record for the species is more than twice that size, however, measuring 15 inches long and weighing 2 pounds, 2 ounces. That fish was caught by Paul Dilley in 1971 at Missouri’s Stockton Lake.  

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On his Memorial Day fishing trip to Cheney Reservoir in south-central Kansas, crappie angler John Mounce discovered an unusual deep structure near the lake dam. He spotted it with sonar, then decided to get a better underwater view of it with his sophisticated Garmin LiveScope sonar unit.

“As soon as I put my LiveScope on it, I knew immediately it was a vehicle,” Mounce told Wichita’s TV-4. “I saw the tires and the fender wheels really clear.”

Mounce was fishing just off the 9,500-acre Cheney Reservoir dam in 16 feet of water when he discovered the vehicle. His LiveScope showed a few crappie holding near the sunken vehicle’s hood. Naturally, Mounce caught the crappies first. Then he loaded his boat and called the local Sedgwick County Sheriff’s Office and reported the vehicle he had discovered.

Law enforcement met Mounce at his home and examined the LiveScope images he had saved.

“They came and looked at some pictures and they knew immediately” it was a sunken vehicle, Mounce said. He gave authorities the GPS coordinates, so they could return to the exact location and begin hauling it out of Cheney Reservoir. The Sedgwick County Fire Department couldn’t find the vehicle due to low water visibility, however, so they contacted Mounce and asked him to return to the lake to help.

By the time Mounce reached the lake, divers had located the vehicle. But he launched his boat anyway and monitored its recovery with his LiveScope.

“It was pretty cool. On my LiveScope I got to watch them hook the chain up to the Jeep.”

A video recorded by Mounce shows the 1980s-era Jeep being hauled up the lake’s sloping dam wall by a heavy-duty tow truck and winch. The Jeep is in poor condition, though still intact. Law enforcement officials haven’t disclosed if they’ve discovered who owned the vehicle or how it got to the bottom of Cheney Reservoir. Still, Mounce was pleased he could assist in the vehicle’s recovery, and wishes authorities had the same equipment.

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“I’d like to see our Fire and Rescue have this kind of stuff,” Mounce said, referring to his LiveScope sonar. “Their stuff works, but it’s not going to give you the detail the newer stuff does.”

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Jefferson City resident John Goad was having a slow day of throwline fishing on Frieda Lake in Crawford County, Missouri. Then Goad, who is in his 70s, ended up tying the state’s alternative-method longear sunfish record on May 8, shortly after moving to a new stretch of shoreline. The reason for his relocation? Livestock blowing up his spot.

Goad estimated he was only catching one fish for every 10 tosses of his throwline. He had fished this lake for a decade and usually had good luck with crappie, bluegill, and bass, but this day was different. That is, until a yearling heifer came strolling down to the water.

The cow waded in to her belly and began drinking. Goad moved down the shore to give the cow space, and his consideration was rewarded: he started catching fish on every throw. One of those fish was a 5-ounce longear sunfish.

“I’ve been fishing this lake for around 10 years and I’ve caught crappie, bass, bluegill—all pretty good sizes,” Goad told MDC. “But I’ve known there are good-sized sunfish for about seven or eight years and I’ve been trying to catch a record ever since.”

The sunfish tied the alternative method state record set in July 2021 by Robert Audrain IV on a private pond in Franklin County. Brian Longo caught the pole-and-line record longear sunfish, weighing 11 ounces, in June 2007 on a private pond.

A throwline is a fishing line with five or fewer hooks and one end attached to a permanent structure, similar to a trotline. Throwlines are popular for catfish and other larger species. They’re included in what MDC defines as acceptable alternative fishing methods, in addition to trotlines, limb lines, bank lines, jug lines, gigs, bows, crossbows, underwater spearfishing, snagging, snaring, grabbing, or using an atlatl. In other words, most anything goes for the alternative method category in the Show-Me State.  

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Goad is a lifelong angler with a passion for all things fishing. For him, this record was decades in the making.

“I was 5 years old when I first caught a longear sunfish, so I’ve been after this for 70 years,” Goad said. “Catching a record is a really tough deal. For an old guy and a veteran, I’ve seen a lot of things, so I was excited about this record.”

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Slams are often overrated, especially if you take them too seriously. But there’s something to be said for setting a goal and testing yourself—all in the name of fun, of course. Here are a handful of summer fishing slams that don’t require plane tickets or deep pockets. Just be sure to check regulations before rigging up.

1. Midwest: The Great Lakes Slam

Species: Lake and brown trout, chinook and coho salmon, steelhead
When: June-July
Where: Ludington, Michigan
Tackle: Orange spoons, black bombers, alewives, herring strips

Why: There are few places in the country, or the world, where you’ll have a better shot at so large a variety of species in a single summer day.

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How: Glen Buehner of Raptor Charters, no stranger to slams, says water between 45 and 55 feet holds browns in the summer. Once you’ve got your brown, start multitasking. Buehner trolls high lines, between 8 and 10 feet of water, for steelhead and simultaneously trolls deeper for salmon, maintaining a speed of between 2.5 and 4 mph, slowing when he locates a bite. If lakers aren’t suspended, the “mud chickens” will be right on the bottom in 100 feet or more of water.

2. Southeast: The Bream Slam

Species: Bluegills, redear sunfish, redbreast sunfish, spotted sunfish
When: July-August
Where: Suwannee River, Florida
Tackle: Grasshoppers, worms, small weighted curly-tail jigs, spider flies

Why: ‘Cause you can complete this Tom Sawyer-style with a cane pole and crickets. And that’s cool.

How: Get dirty and bust out the bugs. We’re talking crickets, grass shrimp, and worms. Target the outflow from creeks and shady, foliage-covered riverbanks. If you want more of a challenge, throw a popping bug, small spider fly, or even a nymph on a lightweight flyfishing outfit. Look for submerged vegetation (which you can find on the upper reaches of the Suwannee), which attracts more aquatic insects for sunnies to suck down. Spotted sunfish are the prize attraction here.

3. South: The Texas Trash Slam

Species: Alligator gar, channel or flathead catfish, smallmouth buffalo, bowfin, pickerel
When: May-July
Where: Trinity River, Texas
Tackle: Live perch, cut carp or sucker meat, spinnerbaits, weedless soft-plastics

Why: They’re big and ugly and fun, and you can brag about your bag at the bar to the next guy who talks trash about his permit, bonefish, and tarpon trip.

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How: Start by targeting giant flathead catfish on the river. These beasts are suckers for a live yellow perch. Lake Conroe on the river will give you a shot at channel cats to 30-plus pounds. Next, go for gator gar. Fish a healthy slab of cut bait near the bottom. Smallmouth buffalo can be found in larger pools and depressions, where they forage for algae and crustaceans. Run a spinnerbait through shallow bays for bowfin. Twitch it to mimic a dying baitfish and expect pickerel to pursue it, particularly after a heavy rain.

4. West: The Montana Trout Slam

Species: Brown, rainbow, cutthroat, and cutbow trout
When: July-August
Where: Missoula, Montana
Tackle: San Juan worms, stoneflies, salmonflies, small spoons, or any of these lures

Why: Rivers like the Bitterroot, Blackfoot, and Clark Fork are temples to those who are ever tempted by trout.

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How: Start with brown trout on Rock Creek outside Missoula. Look for big bugs coming off midmorning at this time of year. Skip the dry flies and tie on a San Juan worm. The upper portion near Philipsburg is likely to hold the most cutthroats, your next target. Browns and rainbows are more common in the lower section. Next, hit the Bitterroot. In mid-July, stoneflies and green drakes will be coming off in abundance, and you’ll have a shot at rainbows and cutthroats. With the remaining daylight, hit the Clark Fork River for a shot at a cutbow to seal the slam.

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Crappie are hands down one of my favorite species to target. They are an abundant, aggressive fish that are also excellent in the fryer. Whether you are bobber fishing in the spring, or ice fishing in the heart of winter, they present one of the greatest fishing opportunities for anglers across the country.

However, the key to crappie fishing success is to understand seasonal patterns that allow you to find and target crappie more easily. This knowledge along with understanding the different presentations for targeting crappie will help stay on the fish all year long.

That’s why we have put together the ultimate crappie guide, where we’ll cover:

• Crappie fishing gear and tactics
• Understanding crappie patterns by season
• Understanding the crappie spawn
• How to catch crappie in spring
• How to catch crappie in summer
• How to catch crappie in fall
• How to catch crappie in winter

Crappie Fishing Gear

Before we break down crappie patterns and presentations per season, let’s first focus on the crappie fishing gear you need. In most situations, crappie gear can be defined by one word: ultralight. Your entire setup will usually consist of lightweight jigs, lightweight line, and a lightweight rod.

Let’s start with the ultralight rod. This means a rod that is incredibly flexible, allowing you to not only detect the lightest bites, but also allow you to work the tiniest and most finesse baits. Rod control is very important, especially when it comes to finesse jig fishing. In most cases, you can’t go wrong with a longer rod, which will give you more casting distance, and allow you to pitch into some of those hard-to-target places. I personally use a couple of Tuned Up Custom Rods Apex Elite Ultralights in the 7’2” length. However, any ultralight rod will do the trick.

Next, you will want to pair your rod with some light line. Most crappie anglers use 4- to 6-pound line. I really like 4-pound monofilament for most crappie situations. This is because I prefer the monofilament stretch on crappie, especially when dealing with bigger hooksets on smaller-mouthed fish. I also find tying small jigs to be easier, saving both time and hassle when trying to change presentations. Some anglers prefer lightweight braid tied to a lightweight fluorocarbon leader (more sensitivity paired with more invisibility), while others will use straight fluorocarbon (the least visible line with high abrasion resistance). No matter the line of choice, keep it light and pair it with a light rod and light presentation. 

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Next let’s talk about presentations, which will depend heavily on season. However, if you’re looking for an all-encompassing list, check out our guide to the best crappie lures. Besides those lures, I recommend keeping a stash of the following:

• Bobbers: Paired with small jigs (or hooks), split shots, and live bait, bobber rigs work year around, although I find them to work best during spring.
• Jigs: Lead, glass, and tungsten jigs all have a different fall rates and density. In most cases, 1/32 to 1/16 oz jigs will do the trick.
• Plastics: For those aggressive crappie days, it’s tough to beat plastics, as they allow you to get to fish quicker, requiring less time re-baiting. Soft plastics also offer a more active presentation.
• Live Bait: Whether you are using minnows in the fall or spikes in the winter, having the option to add real-life movement and scent to your line is always a benefit.

How to Catch Crappie by Season

Crappie patterns change significantly by season. In most areas, this is signified by changes in water temperatures. These changes in water temperature affect their eating patterns, migrations, when crappie spawn, and more.

In general, during the warming days of spring, crappie tend to be found shallow. In the summer as temperatures peak and the water column stabilizes, crappie are found scattered in the weeds. By fall, they start to migrate toward deeper water before developing a more steady pattern for winter (particularly in the ice belt where fish will spend time migrating from weedlines to basins).  However, keep in mind that each region warms differently. Spring fishing in the South is much earlier than in the Midwest. Large variations can even be seen between two borderin states. That’s why it’s important to first understand the basics of crappie patterns and presentations, so you can be best equipped wherever you fish.

Where to Find Crappie in the Spring

Spring is one of the very best times of the year to target crappie. We will define this season as a time when temperatures start approaching the 50’s, crappie begin shifting into warmer, shallow water, and feeding patterns begin to ramp up. 

There are many benefits to fishing during this time. Not only does shallow water and dark colorations on the fish make catching them this time of year unique, but it also offers shore anglers a chance at nonstop action. If you are looking for simple, shallow water fishing, this is it.

To take full advantage of spring crappie fishing there are a few keys to finding these fish. First, you need to understand that fish are searching for warm water. This is because of both feeding patterns and the desire to simply locate warmer water (it is not necessarily indicative of the spawn).

The key to warm water this time of year? Well, that usually means shallow water. As spring progresses, look for shallow bays, shallow shorelines, weed beds, cattails, and brush along the banks. If you don’t have the proper electronics to help you identify fish in these areas, simply throw your bait next to shoreline structure and cover water until you find feeding fish.

In the North this pattern is especially true, as shallow water tends to warm the fastest and lose ice the quickest. As this occurs, crappie quickly migrate to these areas. This is where much of their food is migrating too (and it’s why you want to target shallow feeding fish). Spring crappie fishing is relatively easy, as the fish are congregating and their feeding behavior is increasing.

Also, don’t be afraid to look for moving water. During this time of year, inlets can be warmer, and also moving water presents fresh oxygen. This is especially important in the ice belt after a long winter of diminishing dissolved oxygen and resources. 

Understanding the Crappie Spawn

Spring fishing encompasses many changes, and this includes the spawn. The first mistake anglers make is that they assume the minute that the crappie start migrating to shallow warm water, it means they are starting to spawn. This is not the truth.

The spawn, like with most species, correlates heavily with water temperatures. However, unlike walleye and pike, which spawn when water temperatures are in the 40s, crappie don’t spawn until temperatures are well into the 60’s. In the north country, this means crappie generally don’t spawn until mid-May and into June, and of course varying by latitude (in the South, water temperatures warm up earlier). The spring patterns up to this point are based much more on food and warmth than reproduction. For more details on timing, read our guide on: When Do Crappie Spawn?

As we approach the actual spawn, however, fishing will eventually get difficult.  It’s the one time of year when food isn’t their number one goal, so targeting fish before the spawn (and not during the spawn) is ideal. Additionally, as fish scatter and recover from spawning behaviors, fishing again becomes harder.

Of course, conditions will vary region by region and even lake by lake. The number one key here is to do your research: monitor the water temperature to plan your fishing around the spring feeding patterns and to take note of the spawn.

How to Catch Spring Crappie

Now let’s talk about how to actually catch crappie in the spring. In my opinion, there is no better time to go bobber fishing than in the spring. This is a simple technique.

• Use either a spring or slip bobber (this time of year I prefer spring for the quick adjustments and replacements) and cast to the shallows. 
• Depending on the depth, set your bobber just a few feet from bottom.  Pair it with a small jig (1/16 or 1/32) or hook.
• For bait use a small plastic (I prefer the Bobby Garland line), minnow, or even a worm.
• Cast along the shallows. If you don’t get a bite, keep on moving.

How to Catch Crappie in Summer

I consider summertime crappie patterns to start just past the post-spawn phase. It’s this time when their patterns change drastically as fish are done reproducing and water temperatures start to warm rapidly.

After the sluggish, immediate post-spawn stage, crappie start to scatter. This is when I find crappie the most difficult to locate. Instead of being congregated in the shallows or basins like other times of the year, they spread throughout a body of water. Oftentimes, they relocate to weedlines or in timber, and sometimes you can find them in random places throughout the lake, making them that much harder to hunt down. 

Even the best electronics might not help you as much this time of year either, as these fish are scattered in thick weeds and cover.  So to catch crappie in the summer, you need to cover a lot of water. This will not only help you locate fish, but their aggressive, summer metabolism means they are cruising and much more likely to hit your active summer baits.

There are two main ways I like to target summer fish: trolling with snells or spinners, and by casting jigs into the structure and weeds.

Trolling for Summer Crappie

If I don’t see sunken timber or submerged structure and am not entirely sure where to start, I instantly go to the troll. In my opinion, the key to success with this tactic is to not let your line go too deep. Keep it a few feet off the bottom and go slow.

I will use a light split shot (much lighter than a bottom bouncer, or slip weight I’d use when targeting the bottom dwelling walleye) or not use a weight at all.  On my snell, I will usually troll with a plastic or worm as both are resilient and can stay on when you cover ground.

The alternative is to also use a spinner/bottom bouncer setup with a snell float as shown here. This setup allows your line to float up from the bottom, giving it a different look altogether.

Some states, especially in warmer climates, allow for more complex rigs—such as the spider rig. This will vary state by state so be careful to read the regulations before heading out.

With either of these methods, I will then do a very slow troll through the weedlines, usually with a plastic or worm attached to my snell. It’s simple, effective, and helps you find where the fish are.

Casting for Summer Crappie

My next method is to cover ground with casting. If I happen to identify some sunken structures near shoreline, I choose to cast.  In the north country where I reside, any 1/16 ounce jig would do the trick. Oftentimes I throw a 1/16 marabou jig over the structure, whether it be stumps, a partially sunken tree, or an isolated weed bed. The ticket is to be patient to let the jig fall just enough, and then proceed with a slow and steady retrieve. Again, depth is going to be the key, as you definitely want it a few feet below the water column but not along the bottom.

Additionally, soft plastics can really shine this time of year. They are durable, making them perfect for retrieving through flooded timber, weeds, and other challenging areas to fish that crappie are likely to be. 

How to Catch Crappie in Fall

Fall means cooler air temperatures and shorter days, which also means cooling water temperatures and changing crappie patterns. The key during this period? Look for transitions. Fish will work between shoreline structure and deep basins, and as temperature extremes become more abrupt, they will navigate toward deeper water, where these variations are felt less and where large schools of bait begin to congregate. 

However, it’s in these deep areas where they become the easiest to identify, especially if you have good electronics with you.

To catch fall crappie, we are going to slow it down and go more finesse. Water temperatures are dropping and so are metabolisms. That’s why this time of year is best spent fishing slower, more finesse baits.

I can’t emphasize enough that as temperatures cool, you can’t go wrong with lightweight tackle. Heavier marabou jigs and plastics can still work at times, but I find the best success this time of year finessing lightweight jigs on top of big schools of fish.

Even if you are on a smaller pod of crappie that aren’t overly competitive, you can manage to pick off a few with a more finesse presentation and by focusing on the slow fall rate. Oftentimes, it will entice a fish to rise up and check it out, naturally creating a competitive environment for the others.

My go-to for this type of vertical situation is a 1/16 or 1/32 Mo Glo Crappie jig tipped with a Bobby Garland Minnow Mind’R which is made to work alone or keep your minnow on (and I often times use livebait this time of year). However, any variation of a small jig might do the trick. Just take your time to let your jig slowly fall to the school of fish and you’ll be surprised by what you find.

How to Ice Fish for Crappie

Last but not least, catching crappie through the ice. A favorite season for many people in the Midwest and Canada, ice fishing for crappie brings its own set of challenges. Without the ability to quickly move, it becomes more important than ever to understand patterns going into ice season.

Just like with fall, fish often can be found along the weedlines, but they are regularly shifting into the basin as water temperatures keep cooling and days keep getting shorter.

During early ice, I will head out in the evening, where I almost always find them deep and feeding. It’s these basins, filled with zooplankton, that often hold large schools of crappie.  I always say if you see the zooplankton, then stay. Where there’s food, there’s fish.

I find as winter progresses, crappie follow this pattern more and more.  In many lakes, covered with thick ice and snow, they will spend long periods of time migrating the basins, feeding on plankton and re-circling the area over and over again. 

After you identify some promising locations, you are going to have to pound some holes until you find fish. The one benefit of ice fishing for crappie is that they are very easy to detect. Even with a basic flasher, their suspended behavior is a giveaway. When you find these fish and begin to target them, the key is patience.

When you stumble upon a basin crappie, here are a few tips. If it’s warm, punch as many holes across the bowl as you can. This will allow you to follow the migrating school of fish around making sure you make the most of your time on the ice. If you happen to have live imaging, have one person setup behind it pointing at the school of fish and the others running around with their traditional flashers actually targeting the fish.

If it’s cold and you need to setup the shack, that’s fine. Setup where you marked the largest school of fish. During this time of year, they are often migrating around the basin over and over again, so if you get a shot at them once, you will get a shot at them again.

Just like with open water fishing, I recommend having a lightweight setup. This usually means an ultralight panfish ice rod or a noodle rod, allowing you to detect the lightest bites and work the lightest baits. Pair this rod with some lightweight line and a lightweight jig and you’ll be set. My favorite is the Lindy Tungsten Toad or the VMC bullfly. When you’re on an active school of fish, the tungsten allows you to get down to the bait quicker. Check out my guide to the best ice fishing lures for panfish.

I will often tip the jig with a small plastic, spike, or a minnow. As for action, I will focus on a very slow and steady raise. The number one issue I see people having is too aggressive of a presentation for such a finicky fish. Some anglers will aggressively jig when they should actually be slowly raising their bait. This is especially true when cold water means slower metabolisms.

Put the time in to find the fish, use patience and control when targeting them, and you will find plenty of ice fishing success.

Answers to Your Crappie Fishing Questions

What time of day is best for crappie fishing?

During the spring and summer, mornings and evenings are usually the best times to catch crappies. During ice fishing season, it’s possible to have hot nighttime crappie bites.

How deep do you crappie fish?

This all depends on the season, the body of water you’re fishing, and water temperature. Generally speaking, crappies are found shallow (3 feet to 6 feet) in the spring when spawning. They head to deeper structure in the summer, and then to even deeper lake basins in the winter and fall.

What is the best crappie fishing technique?

It’s hard to beat a crappie minnow fished under a slip bobber for spring crappies. In the summer, when you need to cover a lot of water, trolling or casting one of the best crappie lures are good options.

Are crappie fish easy to catch?

Crappies can be easy to catch at certain times of the year, but also incredibly difficult to even locate at other times of the year. So when the crappies bite is good on your local lake, make sure you take advantage of it. —Alex Robinson

Final Thoughts on Catching Crappie

By understanding crappie patterns, you will have a better chance at finding fish and finding success on the water. However, nothing beats on-the-water experience. Take these concepts and hit the water. But also bring a notebook and jot down your own findings (where you find fish, water temperatures, and depths). With a little practice and patience, you will master crappie fishing in every season.

The post How to Catch Crappie appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Like a lot of other teenagers in rural Oklahoma, 16-year-old Cord Smith just wants to spend his time outside. So after Smith and his friend Jacob Suarez wrapped up their Monday classes at Cheyenne High School on April 10, they decided to hit a farm pond near Smith’s home in Roger Mills County. While fishing from a small paddleboat, they caught a giant redear sunfish that broke a 50-year-old Oklahoma fishing record. The shellcracker weighed 2 pounds, 5.6 ounces, according to the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation, who made the record official on April 25. It replaces a 2-pound, 1.25-ounce redear sunfish caught from a different farm pond back in 1973.

The two young anglers worked along the banks of the small farm pond (less than an acre in size), casting curly-tail grubs rigged on lightweight jig heads. They each had a classic panfish setup: a Zebco Slingshot spooled with 6-pound test. Smith was reeling in the small soft plastic lure when the giant redear sunfish inhaled it within five feet of the boat.

After landing the fish, Smith and Suarez were surprised to see it was a shellcracker. Generally speaking, the fish aren’t as willing to eat artificial lures as other panfish species, and they’re typically caught on natural baits like worms, crickets, and small crayfish.

Smith was about to release the sunfish when Suarez stopped him, thinking they might have a potential record on their hands. They decided to call Smith’s dad, Brian Smith, who’s also the local sheriff.

“I told them I’d check with the local game warden, Tucker Blackburn, to see what they should do next,” Brian tells Outdoor Life. “I checked with Tucker. Then I called [the boys] back and told them to keep it alive, and that we’d meet them in Cheyenne to have it weighed.”

The two anglers filled a large bucket with water, loaded it in the bed of the pickup, and took the sunfish for a short ride into town. They went to Market Square supermarket in Cheyenne and met Blackburn, who brought along a portable aerator to help keep the fish alive.

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Using a certified scale at the supermarket, they recorded an official weight of 2 pounds, 5.6 ounces. The fish was almost as round (12.75 inches) as it was long (13.5 inches).

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While plenty of bass anglers catch lots of fish by banging the bank and exclusively targeting visible cover, catch rates can increase exponentially by using the best fish finders. These electronics don’t catch fish on their own; you have to learn how to read a fish finder to get the most out of their long list of capabilities. But once you learn how to use them, you’ll be able to locate structure and cover, pinpoint obstructions, map bodies of water, and navigate safely. 

Consistent with the basic concept of Moore’s Law, computing power has gone way up in recent years, and the price per unit of memory has generally gone down in marine electronics. That doesn’t mean they’re inexpensive by any means. The mount that I purchased for a 12-inch color console unit on my 2018 bass boat cost more than the 4-inch black and white graph (then state of the art) on my 1995 boat. The electronics themselves can cost several thousand dollars apiece, and that’s before you add optional map chips, specialized wiring harnesses, and other accessories that improve performance. The price increase comes not only from inflation but also because these modern electronics do so much more. 

Not only can one graph talk to another, but you may be able to control it with a connected smartphone. Graphs can also control trolling motors along a set route. In addition to traditional vertical two-dimensional sonar, more advanced units have “down imaging,” “side-imaging,” and in some cases, even “forward facing” sonar. 

It pays to understand the features of a given piece of equipment, but all modern sonar derives from certain basic truths.

How Fish Finders Work

In 1959, Darrell Lowrance introduced the “Little Green Box,” formally named the “Fish Lo-K-Tor,” a portable sonar box that became the most popular sonar unit in the freshwater sphere. There were other similar products from other manufacturers, as well as do-it-yourself kits, that provided similar results. 

Known as “flashers,” they generally had a circular dial with lighting around the edges. The top of the dial would represent zero depth or the water’s surface. The totality of the range would represent a given (sometimes adjustable depth), such as 60 feet, so the 6 o’clock position would represent half of that, or in that case, 30 feet.

The sonar unit, attached to a transducer, would send out “pings” into the water, and the amount of time that they took to hit bottom and bounce back would be reflected as a depth reading. If the bottom was firm, the ping would make a hard return, showing as a short line marking. If the bottom was soft, the ping would penetrate deeper, and the marking would be a thicker light reading.

If there were items in between the surface and the bottom, the sonar beam would reflect them and then continue on. They would be represented as smaller, disappearing lines—blink, and you might miss them. A school of baitfish would be a series of dashes, while a larger predator would show as a single thicker line at a given depth. Brush or vegetation extending from the bottom would similarly be reflected as “softer” lines.

The readings don’t necessarily reflect exactly what is below the transducer. Indeed, the beam is shot down as a cone – with different cone angles often available—so as the water gets deeper, the signal extends out further from its core.

While some anglers still cling to comparatively rudimentary flashers for their sonar, arguing that they provide real-time information, most have moved onto more modern versions which literally draw a picture. The earliest were LCDs or drawings on unwieldy pieces of paper (which did have the advantage that you could save and later review what you’d seen), and now more advanced computers.

Nevertheless, the principle remained the same—a beam was sent down, and a signal was sent back. The earlier graphs showed crudely pixelated representations of what was below, while on some more recent versions, it’s possible to see the head, tail, and fins of a fish. Generally, smaller baitfish show up as smaller dots, while gamefish show up in the form of a hook. When the predators are slashing into the schools of forage, they look like streaking lines across the screen.

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How to Read Down Imaging or Two-Dimensional Sonar

While most two-dimensional sonar draws a picture, the more advanced down-imaging looks almost like a photograph. Sometimes they will show slightly different scenes, so savvy anglers will split their screen to watch both for subtle clues. When paired with GPS and mapping, it’s possible to drop a waypoint on a point of interest and come back to see it.

Here’s what to look for when you’re using down imaging: 

• Baitfish: Look like a wispy cloud
• Game fish: Look like an arc
• Rocks and trees: Will be in a lighter shade because they generate a stronger return

One great way to learn what you’re seeing is to go someplace where you know what’s underneath the surface. Drive over a place like an old roadbed with stumps, a brush pile, or a set of cinderblocks to see how that information is translated.

How to Read Side Imaging Fish Finders

Side imaging sonar works best when idling, looking for both major and minor structures, as well as schools of fish. For example, today, anglers can idle down miles of Tennessee River ledges looking for slight irregularities, shell bars, and stumps in the time that it used to take to fish through just a fraction of that same territory. 

Rather than forming a downward cone, the beam shoots out to the side of the boat up to a predetermined range. A straight vertical line down the center of the graph represents the boat. A black area on either side of that line will represent the vertical water column down to the bottom, and then the bottom will expand outward from there perpendicularly. 

Along that bottom, it will be possible to see near-photographic images of rocks, stumps, timber, and fish. It’s also possible to freeze frame, magnify an area, and even save that picture. Anglers now have a popular parlor game of posting “found objects” like sunken trucks and boats, as well as old house foundations and underwater bridges. 

Just like in down imaging mode, soft objects appear darker, and hard objects appear brighter. But unlike down imaging, you’ll also see shadows. Imagine the beams from your transducer acting as a flashlight that casts a shadow from objects as it passes. Sonar shadows are helpful clues for things like telling how far a fish is off the bottom. If the shadow is close to the mark, it’s tight to the bottom, and if the shadow is far from the mark, it’s higher off the bottom. 

One advantage of side-imaging is that it keeps the boat away from the targeted area, minimizing the ability to spook any fish hanging there. Another is that it’s possible to scour huge amounts of water in reduced time. The downside to the longer range setting (100+ feet) on a side imaging fish finders is that you lose detail. You’ll gain a lot of detail in shorter-range settings (less than 80 feet). 

While the picture may gain additional clarity and detail with a shorter range, most anglers find a happy medium between maximum coverage and the highest quality images.

How to Read Forward-Facing Sonar

Over the past decade, all of the major fishing sonar manufacturers have added some sort of forward-facing sonar technology to their products. Now, instead of going down or to the side, the beam projects forward, most often off the base or shaft of a trolling motor.

Users set a maximum distance and a maximum depth and look forward to seeing what’s in front of the boat. It might be a bridge piling or a rock pile. It might be a suspended school of fish. It’s also possible to target individual gamefish, which show up as moving and increasingly lifelike lighted figures. Unlike down imaging, a fish looks like a fish instead of an arc. Some anglers have turned into hunters, not casting until they see their prey. Others have used it to dial in their retrieve speeds or lure colors—they may see a fish follow but not strike their jerkbait or swimbait, but a slight alteration flips the switch from fishing to catching.

While the pros make forward-facing sonar look easy, it is an acquired skill. It requires that the user keep the beam focused on their lure or target. In the wind, it’s easy to lose your bearings and suddenly be looking away from what you want to see. Some manufacturers and aftermarket products have developed solutions that keep the beam locked on a given target until the user determines that it should be released.

When I was learning my forward-facing sonar unit, a Garmin ECHOMAP Ultra 126sv with LiveScope transducer, I went to known bridge pilings and brush piles. Starting with a known object made it easier to learn how to interpret what I was seeing. Some people eventually get so good at reading their forward-facing sonar that they can discern the difference between a carp and a bass on the screen. I’m not there yet, but the technology can do it if you put in the practice time. 

Read Next: Garmin ECHOMAP Ultra 126sv with LiveScope Review

Fish Finder Tips

Making Adjustments

Each sonar unit has its own quirks and eccentricities, advantages, and disadvantages. Most are decent as plug-and-play entities, but just about all of them can benefit from some sort of adjustment. Usually, the menus are self-explanatory, and some playing around will help. In a worst-case scenario, you can restore the factory defaults.

Depth range, ping speed, and cone angle are the three important factors to adjust, but there are other settings that can make your usage more valuable. For example, different color palettes may show detail better for different kinds of structures or in varying amounts of sunlight. Similarly, adjusting sensitivity can make a world of difference depending on the type of detail you desire, as well as other factors like water turbidity. Additional sensitivity may show up as noise or static, too much of which can be a distraction, but it will also indicate otherwise-hidden objects and features.

Transducer Placement

It’s critical to have the proper transducer, with un-pinched, heavy gauge wire and an adequate power source, to get the most from your sonar units. Try to isolate the wiring if possible. Different technologies require different speeds and transducer settings to operate to maximum capacity. For example, forward-facing works best at slow speeds, and side-imaging is great at idle speeds, but two-dimensional sonar can work even at high speeds if the transducer remains in the water. Be sure it has a clear view of the bottom, without any rough water around it. In the case of through-hull transducers, air bubbles are your enemy. When possible, keep the ping line free of obstacles, air, or inconsistent contact, and try not to bounce it off of cover. Properly functioning sonar is an incredibly valuable tool when it comes to unlocking underwater mysteries and finding fish that others can’t or won’t be able to locate.

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I spend a tremendous amount of time on the water fishing my home waters of Minnesota. I love using a multitude of baits and presentations to catch a variety of freshwater species. However, live bait like night crawlers, leeches, crappie minnows, and suckers can get expensive quickly when you’re fishing on a tight budget. Plus, it’s challenging to keep live bait cool and fresh during the heat of summer. Then there’s the seemingly endless price increases for artificial lures. 

So how do you catch fish without spending a bunch of money on bait? Simple, you hit up the local Dollar Store (or Dollar Tree, or Family Dollar).  

Best Dollar Store Baits

At your local dollar store, you can find a wide variety of very affordable food that you can use for bait, from canned corn to dog food. Below are some of my favorite options. (You can also find these baits online, but then you’ve got to pay for shipping).

Frozen Vegetables 

I like using frozen vegetables for bluegill and crappies during the dog days of summer, when the temperature rises into the 90’s. Frozen vegetables hold up really well in warm lake water and don’t come apart when fish nibble on them.

Canned Corn

During the spring when fish are shallow and the water temperature is still relatively cool, I’ll use canned corn for common carp and panfish. The fish like the scent that comes off the corn. For more bites, I’ll thread a lot of kernels on the hook. 

Hot Dogs 

Hot dogs are a classic bait. I love using hot dogs to catch big channel catfish, but you can’t simply throw a hotdog on the hook. Hot dogs are very soft and come apart easily, especially if you’re fishing a river. So freeze the hotdogs and use the fine netting of a dollar store loofah to hold the bait in place before fishing with them (more on this later). 

Dog Treats

This is a good all-season bait for hybrid sunfish, bullheads, and catfish. Softer, chewier dog treats hold up well in both cold and warmer water. Because of their durability, they’re also a good option for river fishing. However, it’s still a good idea to use the loofah mesh on them. 

Spam 

I like using this bait during the spring, summer, and fall. Flathead and channel cats go crazy for Spam. It has a scent that fish can track and devour. I always recommend wrapping this bait in dollar store loofah to keep it on your hook. 

Fishing With Dollar Store Baits 

You’ve got your dollar store bait, now what do you do? Here are a few simple setups that will work on your local lake or river. 

Tips for Fishing Lakes 

If you fish at a local lake in your community, you’ll likely be fishing on the public dock. However, docks often get crowded. So, find a nice publicly accessible spot on the shoreline.

Bait & Tackle for Lakes 

If you’re fishing for panfish, I recommend a 6-foot, 6-inch to 7-foot light action rod paired with a small spinning outfit, monofilament fishing line, and 2- to 4-pound test. A Panfish style float bobber, 1/64 ounce to 1/32 ounce split-shot weight will do the job. For a hook I like the #12 or #10 Aberdeen hook or a #12 to #10 octopus circle hook. I like the Aberdeen hook because its long shank makes it easy to find and remove the hook from smaller pan fish. The octopus circle hook is cool because if a fish swallows the entire bait & hook, the design of the hook prevents you from gut hooking fish.

 I’ll go with canned corn or canned mixed veggies in spring when water temperatures are cool. In the summer, I like using frozen vegetables, frozen corn, or peas. Panfish can’t get enough of starchy veggies. It’s a fun, effective, and affordable bait for catching bluegills, crappies, and perch.

Tips for Fishing Rivers

River fishing means you never know what species will devour your bait.

Bait & Tackle for Rivers 

I start with a stout rod and reel combination. I really like the Okuma Fin Chaser X Series, which is a handsome and powerful 7-foot rod that’s paired with a dependable reel. This is a great deal with a retail price of about $40. 

Another good rod and reel combo designed for handling and catching big fish is the very popular Ugly Stick. At a retail price of $54.95 this 7-foot rod and reel combo is a solid option. You don’t want to be outmatched in case you hook into a big river monster. 

Next, you’ve got to match your weight to the strength of the current. We received record snowfall in my home state of Minnesota this year. All the snow melt ended up in our river systems, which means high water levels and strong currents. River current can drag your bait out of position quickly if you don’t use enough weight. To avoid that, I recommend using 1 ounce to 3 ounces no-roll sinkers. This style sinker will keep your bait in the correct depth and position. 

Slide the weight onto your main line. Next, you’re going to need a bead (to protect your swivel). Tie a swivel to the main line in order to allow your bait to move in any given direction—and it will help you avoid having those annoying loops in your line. After you tie the swivel to your main line, it’s time to tie on your leader and hook. Your leader should be 18 to 22 inches in length, preferably heavy monofilament line 30- to 40-pound test. From my experience it’s better to go heavy in case of a big fish. For a hook, I like to use a #3 to #5 octopus circle hook. You can’t go wrong with a Palomar knot. 

The final and most important component is the bait. I like to start off with a nice hunk of dollar store hot dog. Use the mesh from a bath loofah to wrap the bait so that it stays on the hook and doesn’t fall apart. Luckily for you dollar stores also sell bath loofahs, for $1.25. Once wrapped, try tying a basic knot at the top of the mesh, if you are unable to tie the knot, use a lighter and burn the top until the mesh melts together. Make sure your bait is secured tightly by the mesh. Then put your circle hook through both the mesh and bait. Now you’re ready to catch a river monster on a Dollar Store budget.

Final Thoughts on Fishing With Dollar Store Bait

A few years ago, I planned to go shore fishing on a local metro lake. When I got to the dock there was a person already fishing—and they were slaying ‘em! I had the simple slip-bobber setup with a piece of nightcrawler on my hook. I offered my presentation to the fish and … nothing. I made a few more casts and got a few nibbles, all the while this angler on the dock was hauling in more fish.

I got closer, however not too close, and saw that his secret weapon was a bag of frozen vegetables.

A few weeks later, I made my way to a park on the mighty Mississippi River to chase some catfish. I was super confident that morning because I had purchased some big, healthy, and delicious sucker minnows that I knew the “Gatos” could not resist. I got set up, made my offering, and as I was waiting for a bite, I saw another angler fishing from shore about 60 yards from me. 

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Ten minutes later I heard the sound of a small bell ringing and then the sweet sound of the drag screaming—but it wasn’t my drag. The excited angler had hooked into a giant Gato. Eventually he yelled in my direction: “Hey, do you have a net?!” I replied “Yes!”, as I ran to assist him. I finally got a good enough look at the fish and put her in the net. The angler was relieved, what a fight! He thanked me as he knelt to unhook the 20-pound monster.

I couldn’t help but notice that his hook was baited with a piece of hotdog. Those back-to-back experiences inspired me to experiment with other nontraditional baits and offerings that would give me more success on the water. You should consider doing the same. To get started, just make a quick stop at the dollar store. 

The post The Best Bait You Can Buy at the Dollar Store appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Overall		St. Croix Avid Panfish – 6 foot 9 inch	SEE IT
Best for Dock Shooting		Lew’s Wally Marshall Speed Shooter	SEE IT
Best Trolling Rod		B ’n’ M Pro Staff Trolling Rod	SEE IT

These are wonderful times to be a crappie fan; we finally have quality, dedicated crappie rods and gear. Creative anglers and companies are crafting exciting new tackle, lures, and equipment, at last injecting the same level of creativity into the pursuit of crappie as their bass counterparts. 

These days, I marvel at the lightweight, efficient, ultra-sensitive rods we wield. Like the new generation of crappie lures, rods designed specifically for light lures, wispy lines, and light-biting fish have reached a crescendo of awesome. Longer, smoother casts, high-precision lure delivery, and superior bite detection are all at our fingertips. Previously, given a lack of quality, technique-specific crappie rods, most of us simply settled for generic “ultralight” rods—nearly always insufficient by several octaves. Today, techniques like dock-shooting, tightlining, strolling, dipping, jig-poling, live-scoping—or just plain old casting a jig—are best met with a purpose-driven crappie rod. 

To help you separate the great rods available today from the best for you, I fished the best crappie rods. Here are my top picks for the most popular crappie fishing methods and my thoughts on each. 

• Best Overall: St. Croix Avid Panfish – 6 foot 9 inch 
• Best for Dock Shooting: Lew’s Wally Marshall Speed Shooter
• Best Trolling Rod: B ’n’ M Pro Staff Trolling Rod
• Best Bait Finesse System: Jenko Fishing Double Down Bait Finesse System Rod
• Best Vertical Dipping / Forward Facing Sonar Rod: Jenko Fishing Big T X-13
• Best High-End: St. Croix Legend Elite Panfish
• Best Rod and Reel Combo: Pflueger President Spinning Combo
• Best Jigging Rod: Lew’s Wally Marshall Pro Target Jigging Rods
• Best Budget: Ugly Stik Elite Spinning Rod

How I Chose the Best Crappie Rods

Crappie are caught with a simple float and jig or with high-tech electronics and specialized rods. With the wide variety of techniques for crappie fishing, I made sure to include a wide selection of rods that are versatile and ones meant for a single purpose.

Best Crappie Rods: Reviews & Recommendations

Best Overall: St. Croix Avid Panfish – 6 foot 9 inch ASP69ULF

St. Croix

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Key Features

• Length: 6 feet 9 inches 
• Power: Ultralight to Medium Light 
• Hybrid SCII+ carbon fiber blanks 
• 15-year transferable warranty
• Split grip reel seat 

Pros

• Exceptionally light in weight yet incredibly powerful and efficient, even with 2- to 4-pound test lines
• Ideal for casting and managing micro braids and other superlight lines
• Solid reel lockup 

Cons

• Price

While crappie rods have historically been built with inexpensive, lower-end blanks, guides, and handles, St Croix’s Avid Panfish series blows you away with its high-end componentry and performance, matched with a digestible price tag. 

One season into an Avid Panfish rod, it’s become the first stick I grab anytime I’m casting a 1/64- or 1/32-ounce crappie jig with 2- or 3-pound test line. Unlike so many other crappie rods whose relatively heavy, mismatched guides create excessive “whippiness” in the tip section, Avid Panfish rods employ feathery Seaguide Delta TYG guides and tips. To reduce arm fatigue, the rod’s split-grip handle creates optimal balance, tucking comfortably into the underside of your forearm while fishing or fighting crappies.

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Through the lower three-fourths of the rod blank, you’ve got excellent torque for punching out long casts with the best crappie lures and for mitigating muscular contortions from larger panfish—as well as larger species. The tip section provides the perfect compromise between power and measured give, just enough cushion to protect light lines and thin-wire hooks while also catapulting tiny lures further than you thought possible. 

Best for Dock Shooting: Lew’s Wally Marshall Speed Shooter

Lew’s

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Key Features

• Lengths: 5 feet 6 inches, 6 feet, 6 feet 6 inches, and 7 feet 
• Premium IM8 graphite blank
• American Tackle MicroWave Air stainless steel guides with ringless inserts

Pros

• Micro tip eyelet reduces line-slap
• Rod blank “touch” system provides more sensitivity for light biting fish

Cons

• Rod stiffness limits its ability to cast lightweight lures in traditional fishing scenarios

The ability to deliver a lure to the farthest, darkest corners beneath a boat dock—or way up underneath a fallen tree—often determines whether you blank or boat dozens of nice crappies. Dock shooting requires the angler to slingshot a lure on a low trajectory across the water, often skipping it under low-hanging structures. Typically, the angler pinches the jighead between thumb and index finger, hook facing out, fully loading the rod blank to create launch velocity. With eyes on your target—typically a small opening beneath a dock, pontoon, or other cover—the lure is released, propelled by the arcing rod’s energy. 

Obviously, the technique takes practice. But Lew’s Speed Shooter greatly eased my learning curve. Within a few hours of on-water practice, I was skillfully launching tiny jigs back beneath the furthest, darkest recesses of fish-holding boat docks, connecting on fish after fish. It’s an invaluable method for any crappie angler, driven largely by the right dock-shooting rod.

Best Trolling Rod: B ’n’ M Pro Staff Trolling Rods

B ’n’ M

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Key Features

• Lengths: 12, 14, and 16 feet
• 100-percent graphite blank
• EVA handle

Pros

• Equipped with Reinforced Hi-Vis (RVS) tip
• Dyna-Flow guides with stainless inserts that won’t pop out
• Strategically placed reel seats for fit and balance in rod holders
• Can be coupled with either a spinning or casting reel
• Perfect length-actions for pulling crankbaits or spider rigging

Cons

• Designed to be fished in rod holders; rod length and weight can be fatiguing to handhold for extended periods

While many companies offer generic or low-end panfish rods, B ’n’ M Poles continues to listen to the needs of serious crappie anglers, building fine-tuned, technique-specific crappie tools. Trolling remains a valuable crappie catching technique, and B ’n’ M Poles’ pro staff designed these rods to maximize lure spread, sensitivity, and comfort. 

Pulling crankbaits, minnow rigs, or other trolling setups requires a rod soft and forgiving enough to cushion light or braided lines while preventing missed or lost fish—particularly important given the papery thin mandibles of crappies. When a crappie bites a trolled crankbait, an excessively stiff or short rod will rip hooks loose or create slack in the line leading to lost fish. Further, a longer rod gets lures away from the boat. 

Varying lengths of B ’n’ M Poles’ Trolling Rods have also allowed me to stagger my trolling spread without tangling lines. Finally, these fine rods typically set the hooks themselves: The blank’s gradual-loading nature allows crappies to inhale the entire lure or bait without feeling ample resistance, while the boat’s forward momentum drives the hooks home. 

Best Bait Finesse System: Jenko Fishing Double Down Bait Finesse System Rod

Jenko Fishing

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Key Features

• Length: 6 feet 6 inches 
• Line Rating: 2- to 6-pound test 
• Lure Weights: 1/80 to ⅛ ounce

Pros

• Improved casting accuracy with light line and micro-sized baits
• Excellent option for anglers who prefer casting over spinning tackle

Cons

• Requires a specific BFS reel, such as a Shimano Curado BFS, Shimano Aldebaran BFS, or Daiwa Alphas Air

On the cutting edge of crappie and panfish products, Jenko Fishing’s Double Down BFS Casting rod introduces anglers to the possibility of tossing tiny lures on casting rather than spinning tackle. BFS also all but eliminates the line twist and other issues associated with spinning tackle. 

When I first fished BFS or Bait Finesse System tackle a few years ago, its ability to deliver tiny lures on casting tackle with great accuracy blew me away. A Japanese-born fishing method for casting light line and micro baits further and more accurately than comparable spinning tackle, BFS has major potential in the crappie arena. 

Jenko Fishing, a leader in crappie tackle, offers its Double Down BFS rod, a 4.2-ounce casting rod—like a bass rod in miniature. While the manufacturer suggests the rod can cast 1/80- to 1/8-ounce lures, I’ve found it shines with 1/16-ounce jig and plastic combinations. I’ve also settled on 4-pound test Sufix Nanobraid for extra-long casts and unparalleled sensitivity with and precise control over light lures. Armed with a Shimano Curado BFS, the entire outfit weighs just over 10 ounces—at least several ounces lighter than the wispiest combo you’ve ever fished, a virtual quill of a casting combo.

Best Vertical Dipping / Forward Facing Sonar Rod: Jenko Fishing Big T X-13

Jenko Fishing

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Key Features

• Carbon fiber grip
• Integrated, interchangeable weight balance system
• ALPS guides and Recoil tip
• Lengths: 10, 13, and 15 feet

Pros

• Sensitive and powerful blank for bite detection and “boat flipping” crappies
• Adjustable weight balance system offsets tip weight for optimal sensitivity and lure control

Cons

• Rod can feel heavy with all butt weights attached

The Big T X-13 integrates some amazing, high-end features into its 13-foot length. Even if you don’t use forward-facing sonar, this rod offers exceptional advantages for “dipping” small lures into precise fish-holding spots, such as between lily pads or right up against a cypress tree.

Catering to the growing number of crappie anglers who rely on the best fish finders with forward-facing sonar, Jenko Fishing’s Big T X rods create a potent fish-catching system. I prefer the 13-foot X-13 for its ability to get a lure far enough away from the boat to avoid spooking fish, yet still giving me precise control over the lure’s action. Once you’ve determined how and where the lure appears on the sonar screen (approximately 13 feet from the transducer), you’ve already won half the battle and can focus on different jigging cadences that attract and trigger bites, as opposed to constantly searching the screen for your lure. With live sonar fishing, it’s all about repeatability and locking in a reliable pattern fast; this rod helps you do that.

I’ve outfitted the rod with a 6.5-ounce Shimano Curado 70 casting reel, loaded with 6-pound test braided line. For balance, I kept all eight 1/3-ounce counterweights attached to the butt. This is key because, generally, as rod length increases, it becomes more difficult to control a lure. The weights help offset tip weight, reduce “slop” and thereby produce a more precise presentation. Moreover, the rod’s high modulus graphite blank, with a fast, sensitive tip, adds to the precision. (Last thing you want is a tip that continues wagging and vibrating long after your previous jigging stroke.)

Other excellent rod features include its minimalist carbon fiber grip and extra light carbon fiber nut on the reel seat. The rod is easily powerful enough to hoist larger crappies over the gunwales, so long as you’re spooled with at least 6-pound test. Essentially, this rod will take your vertical live sonar game to a whole other level of awesome. 

Best High-End: St. Croix Legend Elite Panfish

St. Croix

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Key Features

• Lengths: 5 foot 6 inch to 7 foot 
• Fuji SK2 split reel seat
• High-modulus/high-strain SCV carbon with FRS and carbon-matte scrim
• Made in the U.S.A.

Pros

• Sensitive
• Light
• Powerful

Cons

• Price

I’ve fished a St. Croix Legend Elite Panfish 6 foot 9 inch LEP69LF for three seasons, reserving it for casting little 1/32- to 1/80-ounce hair jigs with 2-pound test line. You simply won’t find a more sensitive, light, comfortable, and yet surprisingly powerful spinning rod. It will absolutely increase your catch rates.

If you’re truly serious about casting the tiniest, lightest hair jigs and microplastics on 2-, 3- and 4-pound test line in extreme finesse situations, this rod will provide endless hours of delightful fishing. Unmatched sensitivity combined with incredible balance and minimal heft makes this rod the finest ever created for the crappie, panfish, or trout enthusiast. Not surprisingly, it will likely set you back two or three c-notes, but think of it as a lifetime investment. 

Best Rod and Reel Combo: Pflueger President Spinning Combo

Pflueger

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Key Features 

Rod:

• Lightweight IM8 graphite blank (1 or 2 pieces, depending on model)
• Stainless steel guides – corrosion resistant
• Cork handle with full grip
• Rods from 4 foot 8 inches (UL) to 7 feet (Med)
• Lure weight ratings start at 1/32-ounce

Reel: 

• Pflueger President in 20, 25, 30 or 40 sizes
• Line ratings from 4- to 14-pound test
• 5.2:1 gear ratio
• Sealed front-side drag system
• Aluminum spool

Pros

• Proven quality reel that’s been in the Pflueger line for many years
• Eight total combo models from which to choose— four ultra-light and light power combos applicable to crappie / panfish
• Priced below $100 MSRP

Cons

• Pflueger’s tiny 20 and 25 size reels feature small spools that may create line twist issues.
• Rods not built for micro-light lines (<4-lb test) and lures (< 1/32-oz)

Across seasons, Pflueger’s President reels have proven to be smooth, consistent operators, offering many years of reliable service. (I have one Pflueger President that’s remained in my trout /panfish arsenal for nearly twenty years.) The IM8 graphite rods are equally impressive for the money, featuring soft yet sensitive tips and just enough flex through the lower half of the blank to battle crappies of any size without being overpowering. 

Among a haystack of bargain basement grade spinning combos—some priced well into the $100 to $200 range—Pflueger’s President combos provide quality, consistent casting for years. This is a combo you can lend to a less experienced fishing partner or a young angler and feel good about it. It’s also a nice choice for a hike through the woods on a quick trip to your local creek or pond. 

Best Jigging Rod: Lew’s Wally Marshall Pro Target Jigging Rods

Lews

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Key Features

• Premium IM8 graphite blank
• Stainless steel guide frames with aluminum oxide inserts
• Rear set graphite reel seat with black metal hooks
• Winn Dri-Tac grips with EVA butts
• Offered in 10-, 12-, 14- and 16-foot length models

Pros

• Ample backbone to hoist large crappies into the boat
• Comfortable Winn Dri-Tac grips
• Extended butt fits comfortably under forearm 
• Relatively sensitive tip for detecting subtle inhale-style bites
• No tangle tips

Cons

• Not designed for traditional cast and retrieve fishing.
• Much heavier (weight) than a standard 5- to 7-foot crappie rod.

Every Wally Marshall designed rod I’ve fished—including those from several different brands—has performed exactly as advertised. The Lew’s Wally Marshall Pro Target Jigging Rods fish comfortably and precisely, just light enough in your hands to avert fatigue (though anglers may also choose to deploy these longer rods in a rod holder.) Although I’ve long paired longer jigging rods with a 1000-size spinning reel, this model fishes equally well with a small baitcaster, such as a 5-ounce KastKing Zephyr Bait Finesse casting reel. 

Relative to crappies, the term “jigging rod” refers to a longer (at least 9-foot) two or three-piece pole capable of clutching a spinning or small baitcasting reel. The primary purpose for this longer rod is to reach out and drop a jig into the fish zone, using the rod’s length to separate yourself from crappies and avoid spooking. Lew’s Pro Target Jigging rods also match live sonar situations in which you’re pursuing specific fish in front of the boat. For this application, consider one of the longer 14- or 16-foot models.

Separately, for delivering a bait into small openings or high-percentage spots near brush, vegetation or other cover, try the 10- or 12-footer. In each case, the extra length presents and hovers a lure or livebait at a set depth and position– close to or away from cover— without spooking fish. When you detect a bite, lift the rodtip to set the hook, sweeping an arc into the blank. So long as you’re outfitted with at least 6-pound braided line, the rod’s backbone plenty stout to lift and swing even larger crappies into the boat. 

Best Budget: Ugly Stik Elite Spinning Rod

Ugly Stik

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Key Features

• Ugly Tech graphite composite blank 
• Exposed blank reel seat
• Ugly Tuff 1-piece stainless steel guides
• Premium cork grip
• Clear fiberglass tip for extra strength

Pros

• Solid reel seat and comfortable, sensitive grips
• 1-piece guides eliminate insert pop-outs
• Graphite-glass composite offers a nice compromise between blank sensitivity and durability

Cons

• Tip section lacks the precision of solid graphite for casting and fine-tuned lure retrieves.

If your goal is to find a rod that will cast, perform and withstand a bit of maltreatment, Ugly Stik’s Elites are great little panfish sticks. Reasonably light in weight, Elite rods offer a fine combination of power and sensitivity, with comfortable cork grips and cushioned stainless-steel hoods. This isn’t necessarily premium crappie rod, but its consistent performance might convince you its value far exceeds its price tag.

An excellent option for an entry level or young angler—or as a backup rod for impromptu excursions to the local crappie pond— Ugly Stik’s Elite Spinning Rods prove that performance isn’t solely a function of price. While these aren’t the most precise or sensitive rods available, they do perform better than a few rods I’ve fished that cost twice as much. 

Available in twelve spinning rod models, five of them fit crappie applications. A 5-, 6-1/2- and 7-foot ultralight are each rated for 2- to 6-pound test line and lure weights down to 1/32-ounce. My favorite in the line is a 7-foot medium light power (USEP701ML), a sweet stick for slip-float fishing. 

How to Choose a Crappie Rod 

The best crappie rods are technique specific and the best way to choose a rod is to first decide on how you’ll fish for crappie, which is generally dictated by the time of year. 

In spring crappie move shallow and into predictable patterns. It’s the best time to throw a jig or fish a bobber. In summer, fish tend to spread out in deeper water as they chase schools of baitfish. That’s when trolling and spider rigging become the go-to techniques for crappie anglers. Dock shooting is also an excellent technique in the summer. Fall is one of the best times to catch slabs, and anglers catch them with a variety of techniques. Of course, some people will be diehard jig anglers, and others will fish a slip float all year round. 

If you’re still not sure which crappie rod is best, the ultimate beginner crappie rod is a 7-foot rod with a light power and moderate fast action. With that rod’s versatility, you can cast light jigs, fish bobbers, and even shoot docks. You’ll be able to fish it for all open water seasons. 

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Final Thoughts

While enjoying the sport of crappie fishing isn’t exclusively a function of the dollars you spend on a quality rod and reel, you quickly realize how much more effectively you can present a given lure— and how many more bites you can detect—with the best crappie rods. Consider your favorite way to catch crappies and then invest in the best rod you can afford, whether it’s $100 or $300. 

Perhaps for the first time ever, fishing rod manufacturers are building brilliant crappie and panfish-centric rods equal in quality and performance to high-end bass and trout rods. Moreover, we’re seeing more technique and tournament-driven designs that encourage our expansion into new ways of catching fish. That’s exciting. And ultimately, it’s the best way to learn more and catch more and bigger crappies than you ever thought possible.

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