Fly fishing is synonymous with trout. When most people think about fly fishing, they conjure images of mountain streams and fish sipping mayflies and caddisflies off the surface. It’s true that the origins of fly fishing are squarely rooted in the trout scene, but the sport has grown well beyond brooks, browns, and rainbows. These days, muskies, myriad saltwater species, bass, and even carp are pursued with fly rods. Panfish, however, don’t rank very high on the list of fly rod targets, which is a shame because they have a lot to offer. 

In particular, bluegills are loads of fun on the fly. They’re available in almost every nook and cranny of the U.S., and unlike other species, they require minimal fly fishing skills to pursue successfully. Many of us owe bluegills for sparking our love of fishing, considering how eager they are to snatch a worm under a bobber. But they’re also the perfect target for people looking to get into fly fishing, especially kids. They’re the first fish I caught on the fly, and even though I’ve caught countless other species—many of them far bigger and more powerful—I still enjoy getting back to my roots during the summer and chasing bluegills with the long rod.

What many folks don’t realize is that while it may not take a lot of skill to get a bluegill to eat, all the practice you get casting, retrieving, and presenting patterns to these willing takers only hones your fly skills for other species. Because of the time I’ve spent chasing bluegills, I’m more proficient at detecting subtle subsurface strikes from trout and I understand the benefit of working surface flies gently for species like smallmouth bass. No matter how long you’ve been fly fishing, I encourage you to make a dedicated bluegill mission or two this summer. To help get you on the right track, here’s a breakdown of my favorite gear, flies, and locations for fly fishing for bluegills—and big ones at that.

Gearing Up For Bluegills On The Fly

Bluegills are scrappy. Larger ones especially fight very hard, which makes bluegill fishing fun. It’s just that most of the time we target them with rods that are a bit overpowering. To maximize your enjoyment, it’s worth investing in an ultra-light fly rod. Though a standard 9-foot, 5-weight rod that you’d use for trout would certainly get the job done, my favorite rod for bluegills is a 6- to 7-foot 3-weight rod built on a fiberglass blank. Bluegills don’t usually require making long casts, so you can get away with a short rod. Likewise, if you target these fish on creeks with a lot of overhanging limbs, a shorter rod offers an advantage when casting to tight areas or when back cast room is limited. While a graphite rod in the same weight would work perfectly fine, a fiberglass rod does two useful things. 

First, fiberglass is softer than graphite. Put simply, it has more flex. Although some anglers believe this slower action is better for giant fish like tarpon and redfish, I disagree. I love it, however, when casting air-resistant flies like panfish poppers, because the flexibility of glass provides a little extra whip to turn them over. Meanwhile, when you hook into a nice bluegill, the softness of the fiberglass can make a 1/4-pound fish feel like a 5 pounder, and that’s just plain fun. 

READ NEXT: The Best Fly Fishing Rods for Beginners

You’ll want a standard weight-forward floating 3-weight line, and as for a reel, think “cheap.” A bluegill is never going to engage the drag, and most of the time you’re going to wind up stripping the fish in by hand and never actually using the reel. It’s essentially a line holder, so a no-frills classic click-and-pawl style fly reel is perfect. Grab a few tapered leaders and spools of tippet in sizes 5X and 4X and you’re ready to fish. 

Top Flies for Summer Bluegills

The beauty of fly fishing for bluegills is that fly selection isn’t very complicated. Considering that pretty much any bluegill will sip a cricket, slurp a bit of worm, or nip a tiny ball of white bread, you can get away with a handful of patterns regardless of where you’re fishing. From farm ponds to meandering country streams, you can’t go wrong with these six patterns during the dog days. 

Panfish Popper

K & E Stopper Lures

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Panfish poppers are not always the most effective pattern you can throw at bluegills, but if the fish are in the mood to eat poppers, they’re the most fun. These tiny foam and balsa wood versions of big bass poppers represent a wide variety of bugs, and when their hard bodies touch down, the plop they make gets the attention of any bluegills in the area quickly, especially in the dog days when there are lots of dragonflies buzzing about. Most of the time, if the fish are willing to eat off the surface, you won’t have to do anything after splashdown. The fish will race over and suck the fly under. But if they need a little coaxing, a slight shake of the line will make the popper look like a struggling insect, while a harder strip will make the tiny fly chug and spit a little water. 

Micro Wooly Bugger

White River Fly Shop

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Wooly Buggers are one of the most potent flies ever created for a wide variety of freshwater fish. This includes bluegills, but given their small mouths, you’ll want to use a size 12 or smaller Bugger. In black this fly can represent a leech or cricket. In brown it’s a tiny crayfish. Tie on a white Bugger and you’ve got a baitfish imitation. Buggers have weighted cores, so they’ll sink quickly. After they hit the water, impart short strips and pause for a few seconds between them. Bluegills often vacuum a Wooly Bugger as it’s falling but a Bugger in motion is what grabs their attention. 

Grasshopper

Rainy’s

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Grasshoppers are available in a wide range of colors and materials, and they also double nicely as crickets, which bluegills love. Whether they’re crafted with foam bodies, spun hair bodies, or wool bodies, all grasshopper flies are intended to float on the surface and bluegills are more than happy to eat them as they bob around. However, a sneaky trick when using these patterns is to add a small split shot about a foot up your leader from the fly. This will cause the hopper to sink very slowly, and a “drowned” hopper or cricket sometimes gets eaten faster than one on the surface. After the cast keep a sharp eye on the end of your fly line and if you see it tick or twitch, set the hook. 

Hare’s Ear

Cabela’s

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The Hare’s Ear is a nymph pattern designed to be fished below the surface. In the trout game these generic flies represent everything from emerging caddis to stoneflies. Theoretically they match all the same things in the bluegill game, though it’s fair to say bluegills are a lot less discerning than trout. To bluegills, a Hare’s Ear just looks like food. It could be a beetle, a micro crayfish, freshwater shrimp, or even a bit of garden worm; the bottom line is that they’ll eat them with gusto. You can cast a Hare’s Ear by itself and watch for ticks in your line, however, they are often more effective fished under a very light strike indicator. The indicator will draw the fishes’ attention when it hits the surface, and they’ll hammer the Hare’s Ear dangling below, If you’re not getting bites fast, drag the indicator a few feet and let the nymph settle back down. Sometimes this little burst of movement triggers noncommittal fish. 

Green Weenie

Feeder Creek Store

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Is it an inchworm? Is it a caddis pupa? Anglers have debated what the Green Weenie is supposed to represent for decades, largely because they don’t want to admit that it doesn’t have to represent anything in order for fish to crush it. This simple neon green wormlike pattern is a bluegill destroyer. You can fish it below a strike indicator or simply let it fall on a slack line, but it works especially well stripped at a faster pace. Perhaps the bluegills believe it’s a small baitfish, but regardless of what they think, their brain is telling them to kill, kill, kill.

San Juan Worm

White River Fly Shop

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The funny thing about San Juan Worms is that you’d think they’d be the best bluegill fly ever made considering how eager these fish are to gobble a nightcrawler. The truth, however, is that they’re best reserved for trophy bluegill missions. Whereas a trout with a larger mouth will inhale a San Juan in one shot, tiny bluegills will simply grab the ends, quickly realize that it’s not a real worm, and let go before ever getting near the hook. If, on the other hand, you cast a San Juan into a bluegill zone and it gets sucked down in its entirety, it’s likely to be a much larger bluegill. I prefer to fish my worms under a strike indicator, and what I’ll often do is tie one on after I’ve already caught a bunch of fish on other flies. Unless the indictor goes down and stays down, I won’t even set the hook. Every once in a while, this tactic results in a bluegill or two that are bigger than my hand.

Where to Target Bluegills on the Fly

If you’re used to chasing bluegills with a bobber and garden worms, it often seems like no matter where you cast, that bobber disappears in a jiffy. Given that flies don’t have the added element of scent to lure the fish, however, it’s important to be a bit more tactical about where you cast your flies. This is especially the case if you want to catch bigger-than-average bluegills. So, take note of these locations—as well as the times you should focus on fishing them.

Shallow Flats

Small bluegills will hang out in shallow water all day all summer, but the big fish are often more selective about when they slide up skinny. Barring bedding season in the early summer when large fish guard nests in the shallows, bigger fish will hang out in deeper, cooler water most of the time. But they know the prospects of finding bugs or baitfish are better on the flats. Focus on these areas at dawn and dusk, as the water will be slightly cooler, and the bigger fish will feel more comfortable in the low light conditions. 

Docks

In the heat of summer, large bluegills love to hang in the cool shade below docks. Ideally, you’ll be in a position to cast at the dock instead of from  the dock. This might mean wading near the dock or leaning on a canoe or kayak. The objective is to send a fly under the dock and into the shadow. A Wooly Bugger is particularly effective in this scenario, as it’ll sink quickly and flutter on the fall, often drawing an instant reaction strike from monster bluegills. 

Laydowns

Bluegills inhabit moving waters all over the country. However, they gravitate to areas where the current is minimal. On streams and creeks, wood laydowns are prime locations to find oversized ’gills, as the branches attract baitfish and other forage, and the structure creates a soft spot on the downstream side of the laydown. 

Grass Edges

Any time there is a flooded bank edge on a lake, pond, or stream, it’s often a bluegill magnet. The fish know that the flooded grass provides cover for baitfish and tadpoles, and that it’s a likely place to find an ant or beetle that fell into the drink. If the water just off the bank is deeper, these flooded edges can produce all day; if it’s shallow, fish these areas during low light periods. If possible, make a longer cast parallel to the grass and work your fly back as tight to the edge as possible. 

READ NEXT: Sunfish vs Bluegill

Deep Weed Beds

Nothing is more attractive to summertime bluegills than deeper water—approximately 3 to 8 feet—loaded with aquatic vegetation. If you’re fishing on foot, you can find this in slower sections of moving water, or potentially within casting distance in a lake cove or pond, however, having a small watercraft is beneficial here. Depth and cover provide bluegills with everything they need all summer long, so at any time of day, you’ll find fish willing to bite in these areas. The trick is gauging just how much distance there is between the tops of the weeds and the surface so you can suspend your fly in that zone without getting hung up. Once you dial it in, you’ll be tight to a gill on practically every cast. 

The post Fly Fishing for Bluegills: A Guide to the Easiest Bite of Summer appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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To the uninitiated, choosing the right type of fly fishing line can be rather daunting. Unlike conventional rods and reels, which rely on the weight of the lure or rig to cast effectively, a fly rod has to be paired with the right line to deliver the fly properly based on the task at hand.

The first step in choosing a fly line is understanding the weight system. Fly rods are designed to cast lines of a specific weight, which means that a 5-weight rod will work best with a 5-weight line, and a 10-weight rod will work best with a 10-weight line. (Fly lines are measured in grains, and each line has a standard grain weight set by the American Fly Fishing Trade Association.) If you match the wrong weight fly line to your fly rod, it simply won’t balance and, therefore, won’t deliver.

With this correlation in mind, you also have to consider the type of fly line that you need. Visit any local fly shop and you’ll find dozens of specialty lines on the wall. These all have their time and place, but for most anglers, the decision boils down to three main types of fly line. By understanding how these different lines function, you’ll be much better equipped to select the right fly line for your home water.

Floating Fly Line

Best For: Dry flies, nymphs, poppers, shallow-water streamer fishing

If you were to peg a “standard” fly line, it would be a floating line. After all, fly fishing was originally developed as a method of presenting flies that mimicked bugs and other small critters floating or swimming on the water’s surface. This means that traditional methods of fly casting are based around the behavior and functionality of a floating line.

Floating lines come in different tapers, with the most common being a weight-forward taper. This is designated by WF on the packaging, and it simply means that roughly 90 percent of the line is a thin diameter, while the remaining 10 percent at the “head” of the fly line (nearest the fly) tapers into a thicker diameter. The thin section is referred to as “running line” and provides little function in terms of casting. The thicker front end is what helps generate line speed and distance. This helps the line unfurl or “turn over” so that the leader lands in a straight line and the fly lands on target.  

Some folks who are new to fly fishing get caught up in the misconception that a floating fly line is useless if they intend to use patterns that are not presented on the surface, such as nymphs or streamers. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Most fly-fishing pursuits occur in less than 10 feet of water, and by simply adjusting the length of your leader, you can effectively fish subsurface flies in most scenarios with a floating line. They are the most versatile lines for a wide range of applications, and it’s only when you begin dabbling in niche fisheries and presentations that you should consider anything other than a weight-forward floating line.

READ NEXT: Best Fly Fishing Reels

Sink-Tip Lines

Best For: Large streamers, large rivers and lakes, saltwater fishing

Sink-tip lines are a mashup of floating and full-sinking lines. The running line floats, but in lieu of a fat, tapered floating head, these lines feature a 10- to 30-foot head of sinking line. Choosing the perfect sink tip for the task at hand, however, is a bit more complicated than grabbing a weight-forward floating line.

The weight of a sink-tip line translates to a sink rate, which is typically provided on the package. To give examples, a line marked 3IPS will sink at a rate of 3 inches per second, while a 7IPS sink-tip line will drop seven inches per second. (These ratings are based on the line’s performance in still water, as they don’t take current into account.) It’s important to understand these sink rates when matching the right line to the water you’re fishing.   

Sink-tip lines are used most by devout streamer anglers fishing for trout, muskies, pike, and various saltwater species. What’s key is that these lines are used less to get a fly to a specific depth than to simply get a fly under the surface as quickly as possible and help combat the inherent buoyancy of larger, bulkier flies used for big predatory species. Sink tips are especially useful in moving water, as you’re often casting at a small target (like a seam behind a rock or short eddy) and you want your fly in the zone ASAP. One perk of sink tips is that they’re typically easier to cast than full-sink lines, as the weighted head provides the same oomph as a weight-forward floating line.

Full-Sink Lines

Best For: Targeting fish in depths greater than 15 feet

Full-sink fly lines are specialty tools. In all my years on the water, I’ve only found myself in scenarios that called for them a handful of times. And if I’m being honest, the smarter thing to do in most of those instances would have been to pick up a spinning rod because it would have been far more efficient. Still, these lines exist for a reason, and if you must get a streamer in front of a lake trout in 30 feet of water, you’re going to want one.

Read Next: The Best Fly Fishing Combos for Beginners

Although modern technology has advanced full-sink lines over the last ten years or so, they’re still heavy and a bit cumbersome to cast. All 90 feet of the fly line features a weighted core, and many are the same diameter from end to end, which means there’s no tapered section to help the line shoot easily through the guides.

Should you need a full-sink line, keep in mind that they will not sink in a straight, flat line. The fly and leader will provide just enough resistance that the line will bow in the middle, creating a slight “U” shape between the fly and the rod tip. As you’re retrieving the fly, it becomes necessary to factor in this sag. If you strip too slow, a hit may never translate to the rod tip. And if you do feel the take, you’re going to have to strip extra fast and hard to get that bow out and achieve a solid hook set.

The post How to Choose a Fly Fishing Line appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Overall		Mako 9600B	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Interior parts are completely sealed and made to last.
Best Budget		Lamson Liquid	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Offers high-end performance at entry-level price.
Best Trout		Orvis Mirage II	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Perfect weight that balances great in your hand.

When I first started fly fishing 40 years ago—for largemouth bass and trout—the prevailing attitude about fly reels was that they were the least important part of the fly fishing ensemble, nothing more than a tool to hold your fly line. As I evolved as a fly fisherman—branching out into the saltwater and fishing for bigger trout and bass—it became readily apparent that the old dogma was just plain wrong. Finding the best fly reel—one that is durable and has a good drag system—is absolutely essential to success during your time on the water.

It’s no coincidence that my evolution in thinking corresponded with huge technological advances in fly reels. In the past decades, fly reels have been manufactured with space age materials, adding to the durability, and the drag systems have become smoother, more reliable and much stronger.

• Best Overall: Mako 9600B
• Best Trout Reel: Orvis Mirage 
• Best Saltwater Reel: Tibor Riptide
• Best Budget: Lamson Liquid
• Best Drag: Redington Behemoth
• Best Euro-nymphing: Sage ESN
• Best Looking: Abel Vaya
• Best Old School: Hardy Marquis LWT

It’s hard to go wrong these days when buying a fly reel. We’re in the golden age, for sure. But I’ve winnowed down a list of the fly reels that I use now or have tested in the past for all sorts of different fish to help you make an informed buying decision.

Best Fly Reels: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Fly Reel Overall: Mako 9600B

Mako

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Key Features

• Carbon-fiber drag system
• 15.2 ounces
• Four different color options

Pros

• Smooth drag
• A drag lock, which means you’ll always know how much pressure you’re applying on a fish

Cons

• It’s among the priciest reels on the market
• Heavy for its category

Mako was originally founded by an aerospace engineer named Jack Charlton, a true pioneer in the fly reel world. The reel is made to last a few lifetimes. Its carbon-fiber drag system is a giant upgrade over the cork drags that are found in many reels—it’s smoother and sturdier. And the reel’s interior parts are completely sealed, so it needs only a quick rinse even after getting dunked in the saltwater.

The Mako is the preferred reel of some of the top tarpon anglers of today, like Nathaniel Linville and David Magnum, prized for its toughness, reliability and ability to fight big, hard-charging fish. The drag lock allows the angler to fight fish with confidence: Any given setting always exerts the same amount of drag pressure. The only drawback (besides its hefty price tag) is weight: The Mako is heavier by a few ounces than other reels in its category.

Best Fly Reel for Trout: Orvis Mirage II

Orvis

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Key Features

• 5.6 ounces
• Made of aluminum bar stock
• Two colors

Pros

• Huge arbor that picks up line faster than just about any reel in its class
• Durability

Cons

• Not the strongest drag

The Mirage II is a big part of the reason that the Manchester, Vermont-based Orvis Company has experienced a recent renaissance in reel-making. The Mirage’s weight is perfect—it balances your trout rod and feels great in your hand. The extra-large arbor enables you to reel in your line extremely quickly. You won’t always need to be able to do that when fishing for trout, but it can be a day-saver if you hook into a really big one.

You’re going to bang around your reel while trout fishing, but the Mirage will hold up, both structurally and cosmetically, thanks to its aluminum bar stock body and anodized finish. One nice little thing the Mirage features is a rounded reel foot. Most reels have reel feet with edges, which can feel uncomfortable to the touch and produce kinks in your leader if you wrap it around the reel foot (as I do) when moving to a new bit of water. The rounded reel foot solves both of those problems.

Best Fly Reel for Saltwater: Tibor Riptide

Tibor

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Key Features

• 9 ounces
• All internal parts are sealed
• Many different color options

Pros

• Strong drag system
• Incredibly durable
• Low maintenance

Cons

•  Arbor is smaller than other reels in its class

Tibor’s founder and owner is the Hungarian-born tool-and-die maker, Ted Juracsik. He’s the OG when it comes to well-built fly reels, having made his first in the early 1970s. Juracsik’s credo has long been “the most beautiful machines have the least moving parts.” His reels live up to it: They are simple and excellent.

I have fished my Riptide for more than 20 years now for a wide variety of different species, including striped bass, snook, permit, bonefish, tarpon and Atlantic salmon. I have enjoyed every minute I’ve used the reel. It’s tough as nails, has a great drag and is nearly maintenance-free (after fishing in the salt, a quick rinse with freshwater is a good idea). Some anglers may prefer the super large arbors on some of the more modern reels, but I’ve never had a problem retrieving line quickly with my Tibor.

Best Budget: Lamson Liquid

Lamson

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Key Features

• 4.65 ounces (in 5-weight)
• Two colors

Pros 

• Excellent drag system
• Inexpensive

Cons 

• Not great in saltwater
• Can get banged up cosmetically

I bought my first Lamson Liquid reel many years ago as a backup for my salmon-fishing outfit. Over the years, I’ve found myself using it almost as much as I do the first team reel. The Liquid, which comes in 3-through-9-weights, is die-cast and not machined like most high-end reels, which is why the price is so low (it’s cheaper to manufacture that way). 

But you don’t lose much in performance here, or even in durability, though I have found that the reel is easily nicked-up cosmetically. The drag system is the same one that Lamson uses in some of its high-end reels, so nothing is compromised there. The only real drawback is that I’ve had trouble in the saltwater with this reel—machined bar stock reels tend to hold up better in that hostile environment. But for your freshwater needs? An excellent backup, or even primary, reel, especially for those new to the sport.

Best for European Nymphing: Sage ESN

Sage

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Key Features

• 4.9 ounces
• One-size-fits-all (2-5 weights)
• Two colors

Pros

• A larger-than-usual arbor so you can get a fish on the reel as fast as possible
• A full frame so you won’t get your line or leader stuck in the reel
• Three weights included (.5 ounces, 1 ounce and 1.5 ounces) so you can balance the reel to your rod

Cons

• A highly-specialized, one-trick-pony reel. You wouldn’t want to use it for anything but European nymphing.

European nymphing for trout has exploded in popularity in recent years, primarily because, when done right, it can be a deadly tactic for catching them. Part of doing it right is having the correct equipment, and the ESN is the best reel I’ve found for European nymphing. It has an extra large arbor, which allows you to easily get the slack out of your line and get the fish on the reel quickly. 

The full frame construction of the reel (basically, no gaps) is essential—your leader and the thinner lines used in the discipline can easily slip through any gaps in your reel and foul up your day. And the easy-to-install weights that come with the rod allow you to balance out your reel to your rod, whether you’re using a 2-,3-,4-, or 5-weight. Though the ESN should not be used for conventional fly fishing, it’s the only one you’ll need for European nymphing.

Best Fly Reel for Drag Strength: Redington Behemoth

Redington

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Key Features

• 10.8 ounces (in 8-weight)
• Carbon-fiber drag system
• Five colors

Pros

• Extremely strong drag (16 pounds in the 8-weight; 30 pounds in the 12-weight)
• Very affordable

Cons

•  The drag is not sealed, which means it needs maintenance

The Behemoth’s carbon-fiber drag system is super strong. You won’t need its strength for a largemouth bass or most trout. But if you fish for hard-charging species that need to be stopped—say, snook who lurk near mangroves or giant trevally anywhere—this reel is an excellent option. The great thing about the drag is that it’s smooth, as well. You won’t lose any fish because of any hitches as the line leaves the reel.

The Behemoth just looks tough, too, beefy and solid. And it is, in fact, very sturdy, even though it is die-cast and not machined. Its one drawback is its weight: A 10.8-ounce 8-weight reel is a lot to handle.

Read Next: Best Saltwater Fly Reels

Best for Aesthetics: Abel Vaya

Abel

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Key Features

• 5.45 ounces (in 5/6 weight)
• Dual-pawl drag system
• More than 80 different color/design options

Pros

• Lightweight
• Priced reasonably for its performance if you don’t spring for a specialized design

Cons

• The designs—some of which are quite unconventional—may not appeal to some traditionalists

It used to be that fly reels pretty much came in two colors: black or silver. Not anymore. In recent years, most companies have begun to offer reels in different colors and/or designs. Though traditionalists may scoff at the trend (they can still get their black or silver reels), the new colors and designs have made the sport a bit more fun. Aesthetics, after all, have always been a part of fly fishing.

To my mind, no one does the color/design thing better than Abel. They’ve been innovative with colors for a while, and have recently begun to incorporate designs from well-known fly fishing artists, like Derek DeYoung, Andrea Larko, and Casey Underwood. All you have to do is pick your color or design when ordering a reel (colors will run you an extra $125; artist’s designs cost an extra $800).

The good news is that Abel also makes great reels. The Vaya is among my favorites. It’s light and has a good drag system. It’s also half-ported on one side, which is an interesting design element in itself, and means the reel doesn’t need any counterweights bolted to it.

Best Old School: Hardy Marquis LWT

Hardy

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Key Features

• 4.32 ounces (in 6-weight)
• Click-and-pawl drag
• One color

Pros

• Lightweight
• Classic look, feel and sound

Cons

• Does not have a large arbor

Hardy has been making fly fishing gear since the late 1800s. The Marquis was long a mainstay within the trout and Atlantic salmon worlds, known for its looks and the unique sound the reel made when a fish made a run and pulled line from it. As space age material infiltrated reel manufacturing, the Marquis fell out of favor, and Hardy stopped making them. 

But in 2016, the Marquis was reintroduced, with some upgrades. There is no longer a line guide on the reel, which would have been cumbersome with modern lines. The frame is no longer full, either, which means you can fit more line on the reel. And there’s more porting on the reel, which allows for better line drying.

What hasn’t changed: the classic look and the old-fashioned click-and-pawl drag, which is the fly fishing world’s equivalent of a manual transmission (disc drags would of course be automatic transmissions). Click-and-pawl drags take some getting used to—when fighting bigger fish, you have to use your palm to slow down the reel. But this is part of the fun. If you’re going to go old-school with this elegant reel, you might as well go full-hog.

FAQs

How to Choose a Fly Reel

There are a few significant things to consider when you look for a fly reel: Your budget, the type of water you’ll be fishing and the species of fish you will be targeting. Unfortunately, there is no one reel that can cover everything. Trout and bass can be targeted, generally speaking, with 3-6 weight reels. For bigger saltwater fish, you’ll need a 7-12 weight reel. A big tarpon cannot be angled with a 5-weight reel. Likewise, a half-pound bream would be no fun on a 12-weight reel—it’d be like bringing a cannon to a spitball contest.

One thing that should not factor into your buying decision: Your skill level. Any fly reel you buy should be looked at like an investment. A good one will last you decades. A great one will last a lifetime—or more.

Final Thoughts

Right now, consumers are in the golden age of fly reels with a ton of great options on the market. Hopefully, this list will help you match your fishing to a reel. Remember: It’s always a good idea to visit a store and get a look at a reel and even attach it to a rod to see how it feels in your hand.

Read Next: Best Fly Rod: Catch Any Fish on a Fly

The post Best Fly Reels of 2023 appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Distance		Orvis Helios 3D	SEE IT
Best Overall		Scott Sector	SEE IT
Best for the Money		Redington Predator	SEE IT

As we polled into the back of a creek not much wider than the skiff, our guide said you’re only going to get one shot at these fish. We turned a bend and there they were just 50 feet away, tails out of the water and pushing a wake as they fed. In an open field, an accurate 50-foot cast is pretty easy. But it becomes incredibly challenging when you add in wind, adrenaline, being surrounded by back cast snagging tall grass, and line cutting oyster beds lining the creek. That’s saltwater fly fishing. 

To meet those challenges you need a saltwater fly rod with the right mix of power and control—not all rods have that. To find the best saltwater fly rods, three fly anglers spent two days putting a dozen fly rods through a formal accuracy and distance test as well as some of the most technical saltwater fly fishing scenarios. If you’re in the market for a new rod, this review will help you narrow down which you want to buy or test out at a fly shop.

• Best Overall: Scott Sector
• Best Distance: Orvis Helios 3D
• Best Feel: G. Loomis NRX + T2S
• Best Fit and Finish: Hardy Zane Pro
• Best for the Money: Redington Predator
• TFO Axiom II-X
• Orvis Helios 3 Blackout
• Maximum Catch Predator 
• Sage R8 Core
• Orvis Recon
• Redington Vice

How We Tested Saltwater Fly Rods

We used Captain Experiences, which is a service that connects anglers with trusted guides. They helped us find a skilled captain and an ideal test location to give the rods a workout in a limited time. There were several excellent options throughout the country, but we chose Charleston, South Carolina, because sight casting to tailing reds is a perfect test for a saltwater fly rod. 

We fished the rods over two days in Charleston’s marshes. The creek fishing was highly technical, requiring long and accurate casts while also avoiding obstructions like oyster beds and the surrounding tall grass. Throw in the adrenaline of sight fishing, and the best rods shined while others stumbled. 

The Test Team 

Ryan Rodgers

Born and raised in Charleston, South Carolina, Ryan Rodgers is a full-time inshore fishing guide and professional outdoor lifestyle photographer. He spends most of his time guiding clients to redfish in technical creeks and river systems. Ryan is an advanced fly caster, and his casting style is powerful but smooth. He likes a precise and firm fly rod due to his preferred casting style of one up-one down. This casting style limits the hauls required to make the cast at fish who are constantly on the move. 

Kevin Hughes 

Kevin Hughes is an Outdoor Life contributor who fly fishes for trout, carp, muskie, and smallmouth bass near his home in Harrisonburg, Virginia. But he often makes trips to the Chesapeake Bay for redfish and striped bass. He also spent most of his saltwater fly fishing career living in Miami, Florida, where he fished for bonefish, tarpon, permit, snook, and a host of other species. Hughes is an intermediate-level fly caster with a fast casting stroke, and he prefers rods with a fast action and quick casting ability.  

Scott Einsmann

Einsmann is Outdoor Life’s gear editor as well as a lifelong saltwater fly angler. He prefers a slower casting tempo and rods with a moderate action that don’t require a lot of snap to cast well. Einsmann enjoys fishing for striped bass, redfish, and speckled trout near his Virginia home.  

The Casting Test

Accuracy 

The accuracy test was performed at 45 and 60 feet, with targets measuring 30 inches wide by 20 inches tall. Each angler cast at the targets and gave a one- to five-point accuracy score (five being the most accurate) based on the rod’s performance. The scores were averaged and listed in each rod’s key features. 

This was a test where we saw the biggest difference among the rods. Some rods were very easy to land a fly consistently on or near the target, while others took more effort to dial in the accuracy and felt less forgiving from minor errors.

Distance 

Each tester made five casts, and the longest of the five was measured. The cast distances were averaged and are found in each rod’s key features section. 

One interesting thing about this test is that the maximum distance remained fairly consistent among all three casters. Rogers’ longest casts were in the 80 to 90 feet range, and Einsmann and Huges’ max distances were consistently around 70 feet. This shows that a better rod will not add a considerable amount of distance to the end of your cast. But, the better rods consistently had longer casts instead of one of the five being a bomb.

Ease of Casting 

In addition to the accuracy and distance testing, we scored from one to five for ease of casting. This score is a significant portion of the review because, as we mentioned earlier, the distances remained fairly consistent. However, how easy it was to cast those distances dramatically differed depending on the rod. 

Oftentimes in saltwater fly fishing, you only have one shot at a fish, and you need a rod that’s going to be forgiving in those situations. When your heart rate is up, and everything is on the line for that one cast, that’s where this ease of casting score is significant.

Equipment Used 

Line 

For the formal casting test, we used Scientific Anglers Amplitude Redfish. While fishing, we also used Scientific Anglers Amplitude Infinity, Rio Redfish, and Orvis PRO Saltwater All Rounder.

Flies

We used a Clouser minnow with the hook clipped off for the distance and accuracy test. While fishing, we used a variety of shrimp and crab patterns of similar size.

Reels

For the casting test, we used a Redington Grande reel. On the water, the rods were also outfitted with Orvis Mirage, TFO BVK SD, and Piscifun Sword.

Rods

We tested all 8-weight rods, and the length of the rod we tested will be listed in the key features section.

Best Saltwater Fly Rods: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Overall: Scott Sector

Ryan Rodgers

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Why It Made the Cut

While we tested many great rods, the Sector was without question the best because of its incredible ease of cast and accuracy. 

Key Features

• Max Cast: 76 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 5/5
• Accuracy Score: 5/5
• Length: 9 feet
• Two, three, and four piece options

Pros

• Forgiving of casting errors 
• Very easy to cast accurately and far
• Excellent balance of touch and power

Cons

• None 

Product Description

The Sector feels like an extension of your arm. Tight loops form effortlessly, and the fly lands where you’re looking. Even our bad casts somehow hit the 60-foot target. Despite our different casting styles, we all cast this rod the best, and it was noticeably better than the others. 

The Sector’s double locking reel seat is made from aluminum, and it never came loose during the two days of fishing. The blank has nickel titanium and Zirconia CeRecoil stripping guides and Recoil nickel titanium snake guides. The Flor modified wells cork grip was comfortable and finely finished. 

The Sector has a soft feel when you’re casting it, but it also produces a lot of line speed for punching through wind and carrying a fly a good distance. During the distance test, we were consistently over 60 feet with each of our five casts. Compared to the other rods where we would have one or two casts that would reach our max range. 

The consistently amazing performance carried over to the accuracy testing as well. We described the Sector as forgiving in that it made the task of throwing long and accurate much easier, and it saved bad casts. Some high-end rods are best suited to advanced fly casters, but the Sector is unique in that it seems to work for a wide range of skill levels and casting styles. 

We tested five rods that retail for around $1,000, and it was surprising that the Sector was clearly better than the others in that pool of premium rods. When three anglers with three different casting styles all agree that one rod is the best, it’s worth taking notice.

Best Distance: Orvis Helios 3D

Scott Einsmann

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Why It Made the Cut

The Helios 3D had a considerably farther casting distance than the other rods in the test and it was easy to cast it at those ranges. 

Key Features

• Max Cast: 81 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 5/5
• Accuracy Score: 4.5
• Length: 9 feet
• Recoil snake guides
• Made in the U.S.A. 

Pros

• Very easy to cast 
• Low swing weight 

Cons

• Balanced more toward power than touch 

Product Description

The Helios 3D is a powerful rod that makes casting beyond 60 feet easy, even for intermediate casters. We felt like the Helios 3D was the easiest to cast far and well suited for a range of casting styles. If you’re going to spend all day throwing bombs, then this is the rod you want. It was also an impressively accurate rod at close and far distances. 

“While the looks are not my preference, I can’t help but love this rod. It’s one of the most enjoyable fly rods to throw on the market,” Rodgers said. “I think this rod can perform for almost all levels of fly caster. With that being said, I could cast all day with ease using this rod.”

The rod features silicon carbide and titanium stripping guides with black thread wraps. One of the test rod’s stripping guides had a significant gap in the thread wraps. It’s a minor fit and finish demerit that won’t affect performance, but it’s not something you expect to see on a rod of this price point. 

In addition to dropping shrimp patterns in front of tailing reds, the H3D is a rod that also excels at casting large flies. Einsmann uses an 11-weight H3D for muskie fishing, and it throws 6- to 9-inch flies with ease. 

The Helios 3D is a nice rod, and it’s definitely worth casting if you’re in the market for a high-quality saltwater rod. It didn’t blow us away like the Scott Sector, and it doesn’t have the impressive finish of the Zane Pro. But if you need to punch long casts in high winds, this is the best rod for that task. 

Best Feel: G. Loomis NRX + Fly T2S

Ryan Rodgers

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Why It Made the Cut

The NRX + T2S has a unique feel that’s hard to describe, but we loved it and thoroughly enjoyed fishing this rod.

Key Features

• Max Cast: 77 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 4.5/5
• Accuracy Score: 4.5/5
• Length: 8 feet 10 inches
• Two piece

Pros

• Easy to cast far and accurate
• Low swing weight 
• Powerful rod for fighting fish and punching through wind

Cons

• Hard to find in stock
• Not easy to pack

Product Description

If you need a powerful rod for fighting big fish in tight quarters or punching a cast into a stiff breeze, then the NRX + T2S will do that. You can feel the power it has in its butt section, and that’s why we reached for it when we were in tight quarters. It also excelled at picking up line and shooting it back out with one false cast. This rod takes very little effort to generate good line speed, and a nice relaxed casting stroke produces casts over 60 feet. It was one of the easiest rods to cast at extended distances. We also tested the NRX + Fly Saltwater four-piece, and it casted like a completely different rod. All three of us preferred the two-piece over the four-piece.

“This two-piece rod is absolutely incredible,” Rodgers said. “It’s unlike the four-piece, which felt clunky and somewhat heavy in hand. Once you get past the weird configuration of the two pieces and start to cast, you realize you’re holding onto a canon.”

The two-piece NRX+ doesn’t come apart in the middle like you would expect from a two-piece rod. Instead, just the butt section is removed. This retains the feel of a one-piece rod in a slightly more travel and shipping-friendly package. The rod has a AAA cork full wells grip, recoil snake guides, and titanium SiC stripping guides—premium components for a top-of-the-line rod. 

The NRX+ deserves to be on every serious fly angler’s shortlist, but they are also one of the hardest fly rods to find in stock. But, if you do find one at a fly shop, cast it. 

Best Fit and Finish: Hardy Zane Pro

Ryan Rodgers

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Why It Made the Cut

The Hardy Zane Pro is nothing short of remarkable in terms of build quality, and it has the casting performance to match. 

Key Features

• Max Cast: 73 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 4/5
• Accuracy Score: 4/5
• Length: 9 feet
• One or four piece 

Pros

• Beautifully finished
• High quality rod tube, bag, and ferrule protectors 

Cons

• Heavier swing weight than other premium rods 

Product Description

When unboxing this rod, there is no doubt you’ve bought something special. Every piece of packaging is dripping with class. The rod tube has details like a circle of cork with Hardy logo burned onto it. Not only does it add a warm—and attractive—touch to the black tube, but it’s also padding for your rod. The rod bag is made from a heavy denier cloth and is nicer than any other rod bag. Then there are the metal ferrule protectors, which have tangible quality and add protection few manufacturers offer. 

Rogers described the Hardy as a “true rod,” which means what you put into it, you get out of it. A light touch results in a finesse cast. When you put power into the rod, you generate good line speed and long casts. It performed well in both short- and long-range accuracy testing. The Zane Pro is slightly heavier than some of the premium rods, and you can notice the swing weight difference between it and NRX +, but it’s not what we would consider a heavy rod. 

I also took the Zane pro on a false albacore trip to Morehead City, North Carolina. Fast and accurate casts were needed to land a fly on busting albies and then a powerful rod was needed to bring them to the boat. An 8-weight is on the lower end for catching albies, but the Zane Pro performed flawlessly.

The rod’s finish is faultless, and it casts damn well too. From butt to tip, every wrap and component is perfect. Spending a grand on a rod is a treat for most people, and the Zane Pro makes you feel like you’ve gotten a lot for the money.

Best for the Money: Redington Predator 

Redington

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Why It Made the Cut

This is a budget rod that feels like rods more than double its price. 

Key Features

• Max Cast: 70 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 3.5/5
• Accuracy Score: 4/5
• Length: 9 feet
• Lifetime warranty 

Pros

• Powerful rod
• Responsive feel

Cons

• Not light 

Product Description

The Redington Predator was the unanimous pick for the best budget rod. Many budget rods feel like a budget rod when you’re casting them, but not this one. The only tell that gave away the price point is its heavier swing weight. 

“I have a ton of experience with this rod because I use it daily with my clients,” Rodgers said. “For the price point, there is no better rod. I find myself comparing it to the most expensive rods on the market. It’s just that dang good.” 

We tested the 9-foot, 8-weight, but the Predator comes in several species-specific models and up to a 16-weight Bluewater model. Each has aluminum oxide stripping guides with ceramic inserts and anodized snake guides. 

Another thing that all three of us agreed on is that we would absolutely buy this rod for any type of saltwater fishing. It lacks the sticker shock of the high-end rods, and nearly matches their performance. If you’re looking to get started in saltwater fly fishing, this is, without a doubt, the rod that we would recommend, and it would be a long time before you would need to upgrade to a better rod.

TFO Axiom II-X

Scott Einsmann

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Why It Made the Cut

The Axion II-X was right behind the Predator in our favorite budget saltwater fly rod, and it did very well for distance and accuracy.

Key Features 

• Max Cast: 79 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 3/5
• Accuracy Score: 4/5
• Length: 9 feet
• Action: Extra fast 

Pros

• Powerful rod for punching casts far and into wind 
• Accurate 

Cons

• Lacks finesse 

Product Description

The TFO Axiom II-X is right behind the Redington Predator for performance for the money. It takes effort to cast this rod farther, but when you put power into the rod, the rod performs and generates good line speed. We found this rod likes a snappier casting style, and once adapted to it, the rod casts well.

The Axiom II-X was one of Hughes’ top-performing rods. “The Axiom requires more force to cast well, but that helps balance out my faster casting style,” he said. “Despite a lack of finesse, it can reach where I need it to and is accurate at range.”

Orvis H3 Blackout

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Why It Made the Cut

This is a rod you’ll either love or hate, but it’s a fantastic rod if it agrees with your casting style. 

Key Features 

• Max Cast: 73 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 3.5/5
• Accuracy Score: 4/5
• Length: 8 feet 5 inches
• Made in the U.S.A. 

Pros

• Shorter length makes the rod handy in tight quarters
• Accurate 
• Very light 

Cons

• Doesn’t match all casting styles. 

Product Description

The Orvis Helios Blackout is a unique rod that you should cast before you purchase. Einsmann and Rodgers had a hard time getting along with it, but Hughes loved this rod and it matched his casting style perfectly. “It’s less obtrusive and allows for faster presentation to moving fish,” Hughes said. 

One characteristic we all liked was the very low swing weight. This rod is a feather in the hand, and you barely feel the rod’s weight as you’re casting. We also agreed that the Blackout would be an excellent all-water rod for casting poppers for bass and jumping to saltwater for redfish or striped bass.

Maximum Catch Predator

Scott Einsmann

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Why It Made the Cut

The cheapest saltwater fly rod on Amazon, was surprisingly not terrible. 

Key Features 

• Max Cast: 70 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 1
• Accuracy Score: 3
• Length: 9 feet

Pros

• Accurate 
• Good action for new fly anglers

Cons

• Lacks power
• Heavy

Product Description

The Maximum Catch Predator was the least expensive rod in our test and it was noticeable from the moment we put it together. The rod has the action of a wet noodle, but we included it in the review because we wanted to see what one of the cheapest saltwater fly rods from Amazon could do. 

It’s not a bad rod, especially if you change your casting style to one like you would use with a fiberglass rod. It was fairly accurate at 60 feet and it has a lot of feel. But, in any kind of wind this rod struggles to cast through it. 

Sage R8 Core

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Why It Made the Cut

The Sage R8 core is an all-water rod that performs well when lined with one weight lighter line.

Key Features

• Max Cast: 77.3 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 2/5
• Accuracy Score: 3/5
• Length: 9 feet

Pros

• Accurate at close distances
• Can cast far when lined with one weight lighter line 

Cons

• No alignment dots
• Underpowered 

Product Description

The Sage R8 Core is a rod that is best for accurate short-range casts and delicate presentations. We found it underpowered for most saltwater applications, and we had to work exceptionally hard to cast beyond 60 feet. All the effort that went into throwing the cast hurt accuracy at 60 feet. 

During the casting test, Rodgers said that he thought a 7-weight line would be more appropriate for the rod’s action. He later tested that theory and said it became a completely different rod that easily hit 90 feet. 

If your fishing takes you from casting streamers to trout one day and to the salt the next, then this would be a rod to consider. Especially if you buy a heavier weight than you need and use one weight lighter line.

Orvis Recon

Scott Einsmann

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Why It Made the Cut

The Orvis Recon is a mid-priced rod with middle of the road performance. 

Key Features 

• Max Cast: 72 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 3.5/5
• Accuracy Score: 3.5/5
• Length: 9 feet  
• Made in the U.S.A. 

Pros

• Accurate at 40 feet 

Cons

• Not the best performance for the dollar 

Product Description

The Orvis Recon is a good rod but we feel that for the price point that it doesn’t have much better performance than some of the less expensive rods like the Redington predator. The $400 to $700, price range is a place where you don’t see much performance over the better budget rods, and still not the performance of the $1,000 rods. We just don’t think that you’re getting double the performance for your money.  

Redington Vice

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Why It Made the Cut

This is one of the best fly rods for beginners because it has an approachable price and has good performance for the money. 

Key Features 

• Max Cast: 76 feet
• Ease of Cast Score: 3/5
• Accuracy Score: 3/5
• Length: 9 feet
• Saltwater grade components 

Pros

• Affordable
• Forgiving action for new fly anglers 

Cons

• Heavy swingweight 

Product Description

The Redington Vice is in the $200 price range where you don’t expect much from a fly rod. But for Hughes, it was his best distance rod. “The Vice is a firm rod with a lot of power, and it casts surprisingly far,” he said. 

If you had your eyes closed while casting you would know that you were casting a budget rod. It just doesn’t have the refined feel of more expensive sticks. But it has good performance, and we think that for a new angler that this rod isn’t going to hold you back. It’s also a good all water rod, so if you need one 8-weight for both freshwater and saltwater, especially if you’re on a budget, the vice is an excellent rod for the money.

How to Choose a Saltwater Fly Rod 

Price

Fly fishing is crazy expensive. You can buy a really nice spinning rod for $200, but that’s the entry point for fly rods—and a drop in the bucket compared to the best saltwater fly reels. Expensive rods have a nicer fit and finish, and they’ll be lighter than cheap ones. But the main difference is that an expensive rod makes casting far and accurately much easier. When you need to make that one perfect cast, or you’re spending all day casting, a nicer rod is what you want in your hand. 

Rods can be purchased for under $200, but they lack the casting performance needed for saltwater. Budget rods we recommend land in the $200 to $400 range. Those rods include the Redington Vice, Redington Predator, and the TFO Axiom II-X. All will throw a fly in the wind and with accuracy. 

If you want to upgrade from there, we recommend skipping past the $400 to $700 price range to the best of the best. The top rods are all around $1,000. In that arena, you have several fantastic options, and the best way to find out which is going to work for you is to cast them at a fly shop. 

Fishing 

Fly rods come in various weights and lengths. The standard fly rod length is 9 feet, and it’s a great place to start unless you need a rod for a specific situation. A rod in 8 or 9 weight is ideal for most inshore saltwater fly fishing. If you’re getting into throwing big flies or larger fish like bull reds, cobia, tarpon, jacks, and 40+ inch stripers, you’ll need to step up to a 10- or 11-weight. Rods in the 12- to 16-weight range are for big game like billfish and sharks. 

FAQ

Final Thoughts  on the Best Saltwater Fly Rods

Testing 12 of the best saltwater fly rods side-by-side allowed us to see each rod’s nuances and gave a clear picture of the top performers. We had a clear overall winner in the Scott Sector and a clear best budget rod winner in the Redington Predator. Those rods will work well for most people, but it’s still best to test out a few for yourself to see how they work for you.

The post The Best Saltwater Fly Rods of 2023, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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FOR ME, flying and fly-fishing both began in California. The first flight was as a passenger with Frank Hawks, the first fishing as a novice in the Sierras. 

Then—also on the West Coast, and also in the dark ages of longer ago than I like to remember—a pilot named John Montijo taught me to fly. My husband, not so long ago, undertook some post-graduate instruction in fishing. Whether or not I’m a good flyer is debatable. Whether or not I’m a finished fisherman, isn’t. I’m not. 

It’s unwise, I suppose, to be married to one’s instructor. The relationship is apt to cramp one’s style—both ways. The “severest critic” serves a purpose, but sometimes the S. C. isn’t wanted at the elbow when the student is trying to master the intricacies of casting a fly against the wind—or, for that matter, with the wind, because of that odd habit the back-cast has, under such circumstances, of enshrouding the caster in an unhappy tangle of line and leader and flies. 

“Now,” I can hear my husband admonish, “drop your fly there—the dark eddy by that rock.” 

In the particular pool before me there are several dark eddies and any number of rocks. Not that the exact locality makes much difference anyway because I’m not yet able to persuade my line to go where I wish it to. 

“Not there. There!” 

The Coachman and Professor (I can actually recognize a half-dozen different flies) drift down in quite the wrong direction. Even I realize it, just as I know they shouldn’t drift at all—they ought to go out from my rod tip straight and smart, landing ever so sweetly on the surface, and forthwith flit alluringly upstream toward me. 

“Holy Cats!”… the Lord and Master-Fisherman is becoming apoplectic. “Let the line run out! Keep the tip up … gently … give the trout a chance. Now, try another cast.” 

I do. 

“Hellsbells! That’s not a flail—that’s a rod-only four ounces of delicate bamboo. Forget the main strength. Just your wrist—a little forearm.”

So it goes. I am conscious of some improvement. Gradually the knack of handling rod, line, reel, and flies comes with practice—comes sufficiently, at least, so that there’s fun in fishing, however far the technique may be from the perfection of experience. 

“After all,” … it’s only human to talk back when my husband complains too bitterly because I’ve snapped the light leader on a promising trout … “after all, what do you know about taking an airplane off a small field?” 

“Or a large one!” His grin is disarming. He’s always declared that one pilot is enough in any family. He refuses to try to learn the first thing about handling the controls, satisfied to qualify as a pretty good passenger. “Aviation,” he expounds, “is a means of going places, fast. Trout fishing hasn’t any practical virtues—unless you count frayed patience, wet feet, exhaustion, and odds and ends like mosquitoes and black flies. The queer part of it is the whole thing somehow adds up to more fun than you can get ’most any other way.”

Of course, he is an addict. I can take it or leave it.

For me the charm, I think, lies not nearly as much in the fishing itself as the way it’s done, with whom it’s done, and where. Take Wyoming, for instance. 

A recent migration of ours thither is chargeable to Carl Dunrud, whose comfortable, hospitable Double Dee Ranch sprawls along a high valley in the region south of Cody and east of Yellowstone Park. Carl is a cowboy whom my husband first met in Montana years ago. Since then they have had many trips on the trail together, one leading all the way to Greenland. Although Carl up to that time had never seen salt water, he proved himself as competent a sailor as he is a bronc rider. We have a souvenir of that northern trek in our home at Rye, N.Y. It is the hide of a polar bear Carl lassoed in the icy waters of Baffin Bay. 

“Wrangling dudes or wrangling bears? Which is easier?” Carl turned my question over in his mind. Finally he allowed that each occupation offers its problems. “Perhaps,” he added, “the bears were more fun!”

WE WERE SITTING on the sky-line shoulder of an 11,000-foot peak, looking down on Carl’s own metropolis, the ghost mining city of Kirwin, which forty years ago teemed with activity. A million dollars was spent there before miners and backers, reaching the conclusion that getting the gold cost more than it was worth, abandoned the entire project. 

Carl and I had just been discussing the progressive shrinking of our continent. Not that North America was disappearing, but only that geography wasn’t what it used to be on account of aviation. Thanks to modern flying, Wyoming has come to be almost next door to New York, in terms of the time it takes to get there. 

Carl was demonstrating with a map and schedule of one of the trans-continental air transport companies. 

“You can leave New York one evening and be at my ranch by sundown the next day,” he explained. “Ride from Newark to Cheyenne, transfer there in the morning, fly to Sheridan, and I pick you up there by car.” 

“Or one could fly directly to Cody,” I offered. “The CWA has made the field adequate, hasn’t it?” 

“Good enough for anyone, they tell me. But better still, couldn’t you land on one of these bald mountains? There are likely places up there,” he indicated the adjacent region, which looked from where we sat as if it were set on edge. “Take Meadow Creek, for instance—there’s a flat as big as all outdoors up at the head of it by the divide … ”

“How high?” 

“Oh, about 12,000 feet.” 

Carl was disappointed to learn that two miles up was pretty high for either landing or taking off at all times. 

Nevertheless, we decided that perhaps I actually could get within a few miles of the Double Dee with my plane—though how I could safely leave the poor creature perched up on a highland sheep range, and whether I could get her off again, were questions open to debate. 

At all events, the Yellowstone Park region, tucked into the northwestern corner of Wyoming, may be but a day’s journey from the eastern seaboard for modern vacationists. This time Mr. Putnam and I drove, instead of flying. Habitually we commute across the continent by air, but we chose to make this vacation trip, for variety’s sake, by road. 

An interesting land voyage it may be. This year a pleasant contrast to some other journeys was the comparative optimism of the communities encountered throughout the eleven states traversed. Every garage, service station, hotel, and wayside merchant we queried reported his business the best it had been in four years. Nowadays Americans seem to be seeing America, said our highway friends. 

The dark side of the picture is the plight of the drought-stricken regions. Only some of this we saw, but enough to make us heartsick—saharas of dust where should have stood green grain; dried-up rivers and waterholes; corn shrivelling on wilting stalks; gaunt cattle without drink or food; discouraged farms and deserted homesteads. Though we saw only the fringes of it, obviously a far-flung calamity will add heavy burdens for all of us, in one way or another. 

In happy contrast to the dusty despairs of drought and the worries of a bewildered world was the crisp peacefulness of the Wyoming mountains with all the needs of living right at hand on the pack horses, a concentrated world of one’s very own, refreshing, restful, and remote. 

The first time I flew the Atlantic, with Wilmer Stultz and Slim Gordon, back in 1928, we were stranded at Trespassey [sic] up in Newfoundland for thirteen days, waiting for favorable weather. During that stay the prime delicacy of the local larders turned out to be rabbit, appetizing on occasion but wearisome if seen too often. 

Which is one reason why I turned to trout. In the neighboring streams I saw more of them than I have seen before or since; mostly little fellows, to be sure, but so many it was simply a matter of dropping in a hook and pulling out a fish. However, trout fishing did not interest the natives. Cod were easier to get, I suppose. 

On our pack trip with Carl, fishing was only a part; doing nothing was really the object. In this endeavor we aimed at being neither too luxurious nor too primitive. Our equipment contained a cook tent, with a stove which folded up magically. Other appurtenances of soft living were a folding chair and table. Beyond that everything was of the simplest. After all, for comfort there’s nothing one needs on summer trails beside a sleeping bag and a tent just big enough to shed night rains—ordinary daytime showers dry quickly as one goes. 

At the Double Dee ranch itself there are the best of beds and other amenities, ranging from a telephone to a porcelain bathtub with running hot water that actually runs. And welcome both may be at the end of a week or two in the hills. 

Our locomotion was chiefly on horseback. We added a fillip to just riding, however, for on fishing trips we found no great difficulty in fly-fishing from horseback. That is, after I’d mastered the rudiments of the art—for my steed, a supremely wise strawberry roan named Red, was at best unenthusiastic about my wielding a rod from the saddle, and quite actively objected when the fish carried the line in the vicinity of his legs.

We indulged in our equine fishing on Frontier Creek where the stream loafs along the flat reaches of a valley paved with rounded stones and pebbles. In that kind of going one has to ford the stream many times, and it was pleasantly convenient to stay in the saddle and let the horses do the wading. 

It was amusing, also, to cast from midstream to the pool below and no great trick to hook fish that way, although more difficult to land them without dismounting. As a matter of prestige G. P. and Carl both contrived to bring hooked fish alongside their mounts, who patiently stood by while their riders accomplished the ticklish process of bending down to the water’s surface with one hand and with the other holding the rod aloft. I was content to let the others land mine for me, although I did have the fun of capturing two trout, quite unaided, both hooked on the same cast. 

In our camp talks, after Carl had asked his share of questions regarding women flyers, I sought his reactions as to women anglers. He said there were some good ones but many of those he knew lacked experience. 

“They’re getting it now,” I said. “Recent statistics show a great increase in the number of licenses issued to women.”

“The poor fish,” observed Carl. 

“Mrs. Martin Johnson,” I continued, ignoring the ambiguity, “catches all the fish needed for food on the African expeditions with her husband. And that’s the only way to fish,” I added challengingly, “or hunt.” 

Of course a discussion on the pros and cons of killing wild life immediately rocked the party. I held out, as always, against killing for killing’s sake. To acquire food, to protect property or livestock, or to provide museums with specimens for scientific purposes, seem to me to be the only possible justification for slaughter. Even those excuses should be controlled, even more than they are today, lest animals face extinction on one count or another. The basic principle of which applies to fishing, even though fish are reasonably easy to replace. 

To draw more fire I remarked I’d catch my food in still, deep waters with baited hook. One can think better. Whole days can be dedicated to fish and philosophy, with the surprise element never absent—for who knows what will become ensnared on the end of the line, or what noble idea may be born in the head. 

“The latter likelihood is remote in the type of fishermen who prefer still water,” began my husband. 

But just then the sudden appearance of a band of elk against the sky line of a ridge across the valley from camp terminated the discussion. Which perhaps was well, for after all my experience with fishing of most kinds is too limited to qualify me in a piscatorial debate. To broach the heresy of using live bait to a dyed-in-the-feather fly-fisherman, or to expound the satisfaction of still water as compared to the joys of following the ever-changing face of streams, was to risk vacation happiness. Words cannot settle such cosmic arguments. Comparisons are as fruitless as those in the world of aviation when the merits of heavier- and lighter-than-air-craft are battled over. 

But when the arguments are ended, and the camp fire faded to dull embers, it is fun, lying snugly in the sleeping bag, to plan the next pack trip. In the air, of course—not with horses. Such a pack-plane trip I hope some day to make, with everything in the fuselage—tents, bedding, food, the same self-containment as the microcosm of the pack train.

This story originally ran in the December 1934 issue of Outdoor Life. Read more OL+ stories.

The post Amelia Earhart on Flying and Fly-Fishing, from the Archives appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Overall		Orvis Clearwater	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Quality components throughout.
Best for Kids		Echo Gecko Kit	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Easy to cast, cool-looking combo.
Best Budget		Cabela’s Prestige	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Everything to fly fish on a budget.

The sport of fly fishing grew immensely during the COVID-19 pandemic. In 2020 alone, participation increased by 11 percent, a giant leap over the prior 10 years. And the numbers keep rising. It makes perfect sense: few things are better salves for the soul than a fly rod, a pretty piece of water, and (hopefully) willing fish. Some of these anglers were returning to the sport after an absence. But a great many of them are beginners. And these new anglers face what is perhaps the biggest barrier to entry in fly fishing: getting the right gear.

Over the years, I’ve introduced my wife, my three kids, and a few friends to the sport of fly fishing. I’ve found that if real interest sparks, the best—and easiest—way to get someone started in the sport is for them to purchase a fly fishing combo kit. That is, a packaged outfit that comes with a rod, reel, and, most of the time, a fly line. Piecing together a fly fishing setup can be overwhelming, but the best fly fishing combos for beginners make it easy. All of the components are matched to each other, so you don’t have to worry about building one from the ground. And with the new materials used in fly fishing gear today, most combos perform well—but some rise above the rest.

• Best Overall: Orvis Clearwater Boxed Fly Rod Outfit 
• Best for Kids: Echo Gecko Kit
• Best Premium: Sage Foundation Outfit
• Best Budget: Cabela’s Prestige Fly Outfit
• Best Trout: Orvis Encounter Fly Rod Boxed Outfit
• Best Big Game: Hardy Zane Rod and Zane Carbon Reel
• Best Looking: Redington Vice Combo
• Best Two-handed Casting: LL Bean Streamlight Ultra II Switch Fly Rod Outfit
• Best Euro Nymphing: Greys Fin Euro Nymph Fly Combo

How I Chose the Best Fly Fishing Combos for Beginners

I’ve been fly fishing for more than 40 years, and I‘ve tested or owned many fly fishing combos for myself or to help others get started in the sport. For this review, I considered quality as the most important metric when choosing the best fly fishing combos for beginners. To learn how to fish well, you need a quality rod and reel that balance with each other and perform well. You don’t want to start your fly fishing career with bad gear. Your gear should encourage, not deter you. I also considered price. A starter kit for fly fishing should, by definition, not break the bank (you can—and will—do that later if you dive head first into the sport). I also considered the reputation of the companies that make the combos and how responsive they are to customer questions. You’ll want all the knowledge you can get when you start your fly fishing career.

Best Fly Fishing Combos for Beginners: Reviews and Recommendations

Best Overall: Orvis Clearwater Boxed Fly Rod Outfit 

Orvis

SEE IT

Key Features

• Includes four-piece rod, reel and line, and rod case
• Rod weight: 3 ounces (8 feet 6 inches, 5-weight)
• Large arbor reel with disc drag

Pros

• Versatile
• Slick, easy-to-cast line
• 25-year guarantee

Cons

• Rod is heavy for its class
• No hook-keeper

Though the Clearwater combo comes in a few different sizes, I like the 8-foot 6-inch 5-weight best. It’s the perfect rod size to learn the sport. The rod action is medium-fast, which is the best for learning how to feel the casting motion. This rod has all the versatility you need for casting dry flies, nymphs, and even streamers. The 25-year “no-questions-asked” guarantee can come in handy for the beginner.

Best for Kids: Echo Gecko Kit

Echo

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Key Features

• Comes with 4-piece rod, reel, line, and rod case
• 4-weight rod is 2.9 ounces and 7 feet 9 inches

Pros

• Medium-action great for little hands and arms
• Cosmetics
• Reel is easy to affix

Cons

• Only one size
• Reel is easily damaged

All you can ask for when getting little kids started in fly fishing is that they like it. The Gecko will help in this regard. The handle—colored in sort of a camo-flecked green—is designed to accommodate two-handed casts, which is sometimes easier for little arms. The rod is a bright, eye-catching yellow. This rod’s medium-fast action is very relaxed and forgiving, which means kids don’t have to work that hard to get it going.

Best Premium: Sage Foundation Outfit

Sage

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Key Features

• 4-piece, 9 foot, 5-weight rod (3 ounces) 
• Includes reel, line, and nylon rod and reel case
• Large arbor, 4.8-ounce reel

Pros

• One of the best rod and reel combos for the price
• Rio Gold fly line is top-of-class

Cons

• No hook-keeper
• Fast action might be a bit much for beginners

The Sage Foundation Outfit has much of what Sage offers at its higher price points. The rod is quick and powerful, and casts well at all distances. Its fast action, however, might require practice from  true novices. The reel has a durable exterior, and the disc-drag is sealed, so it’ll last a long time. The Rio line that comes with the outfit is smooth and slick, which makes it excellent for trout and other freshwater species. 

Best Budget: Cabela’s Prestige Fly Outfit

Cabela’s

SEE IT

Key Features

• 4-piece rod
• Includes reel, line, fly box with 12 flies, nippers, forceps, and more
• Large arbor disc-drag reel

Pros

• Ready to fish
• Budget-friendly
• Above average reel at its price point

Cons

• Freshwater use only 
• Might be outgrown quickly

Cabela’s throws in everything but the kitchen sink with this outfit. Rod, reel, line, leader, nippers, forceps, gear pouch, fly box, and even flies come with the Prestige Fly Outfit, which means you’ll be ready to hit the water fast. The medium action of the rod is great for beginners, and the solid reel is a good bargain. This is a true beginner’s outfit, so those who quickly take to the sport may soon move to higher quality products.

Best for Trout: Orvis Encounter Fly Rod Boxed Outfit

Orvis

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Key Features

• 4-piece rod 
• Includes reel, line, leader, and carrying case
• Large arbor reel

Pros

• Rod casts very well
• Reasonable price point

Cons

• You don’t get Orvis’s 25-year guarantee
• Plastic reel isn’t as sturdy as others

I learned to trout fish on an 8 foot 6 inch Orvis rod, so I have a natural affinity for this one. The medium action is great for beginners, and it’s also arguably the best way to learn how to fish dry flies for trout. This also forces beginners—who might rush their casts by muscling the line out of the rod—to slow down and actually feel how the rod works and how it’s connected to your fly. The reel is plastic, rather than aluminum, so it’s not terribly durable. And you’ll need to rinse it well if you use it in saltwater.

Best Big Game: Hardy Zane Rod and Zane Carbon Reel

Hardy

SEE IT

Key Features

• 4-piece, 9-foot rod (11-weight) 
• Disc drag reel (10000)
• Both rod and reel include cases
• Saltwater-safe

Pros

• 11-weight rod is great big-game
• Excellent drag on the reel
• Good for beginners or experts

Cons

• Have to buy rod and reel separately
• Line not included

Traditionally, most fly anglers start with trout, bass, or other smaller species. These days, some start by going big, with a trip to the Florida Keys or Mexico for tarpon. Those folks should take a good look at Hardy, which has long been a leader when it comes to fishing for the giants in the saltwater world, like tarpon, jacks, and giant trevally. This Hardy combo (an 11-weight rod with an 11-weight reel), which isn’t a true combo , is the best way to enter the big fish game. The fly rod is medium-fast, which helps punch out flies into the wind (which you are almost guaranteed to see on the ocean). The fly reel is made of bar stock aluminum, which means it’s tough and salt-safe, and the disc-drag is one of the best in its class at slowing down the biggest sea monsters.

The Hardy Zane Pro was one of the top performers in the Outdoor Life saltwater fly rod test. Read the full Best Saltwater Fly Rods review to learn more.

Best Looking: Redington Vice Combo

Redington

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Key Features

• 4-piece, 4-weight rod
• Includes reel, Rio line, and rod and reel case
• Redington lifetime warranty

Pros

• Looks great
• Lifetime warranty

Cons

• Rod is a bit stiff
• Reel runs heavy

The Vice Combo comes with a fetching bright green rod and a reel that leaves the drag side blank so you can customize it with your own decals. While the manufacturer says the action is “fast,” I felt it was more “medium-fast,” which is better for beginners. It throws medium-to-long casts well, but is a little less accurate on shorter ones. The Rio Mainstream line is well-suited for beginners, with a heavy front taper, which allows for easy loading of the rod and longer casts. It’s a great combo for the beginner who prizes fun and creativity.

Best for Two-handed Casting: LL Bean Streamlight Ultra II Switch Fly Rod Outfit

L.L. Bean

SEE IT

Key Features

• 4-piece, 11-foot, 7-weight rod 
• Includes reel, line, leader, and rod case.
• Large arbor reel with a sealed disc drag

Pros

• Reasonable price
• Rod casts with power and has a pleasant green finish

Cons

• Cork grip on the rod is not as durable as the other components
• Leader can slip into the reel

One of the fastest-growing techniques in the sport of fly fishing is two-handed casting, and it can actually be an easier way to learn how to fly fish (little kids sometimes have to do it out of necessity). The Streamlight Ultra II Switch is a great way to get into two-handed casting without breaking the bank. The “switch” part of the name means you can cast this rod with either one or two hands. On bigger rivers, you’ll appreciate the ability to do the latter. This medium-fast rod shoots line extremely well, especially when using a two-handed cast, and it doesn’t feel too heavy when using only one hand. The drag on the reel is of good quality, and the Rio Switch Chucker that comes with the outfit is top notch. 

Best for Euro Nymphing: Greys Fin Euro Nymph Fly Combo

Greys

SEE IT

Key Features

• 4-piece 10 or 11-foot rod
• Includes reel, line, and reel and rod case
• Enclosed-frame disc drag reel

Pros

• Already set up
• Rod tip is flexible and sensitive

Cons

• Stiff line can coil easily

Another fast-growing segment of the fly fishing world is Euro nymphing, which is sometimes known as “contact nymphing.” The idea behind the method—which employs long rods and smaller diameter lines—is to be able to get your nymphs deep and maintain contact with them so you can feel delicate bites. This fly combo, featuring a 3/4-weight rod, is designed by the Englishman, Howard Croston, who has won the World Fly Fishing title twice, thanks to his prowess as a contact nympher. This method can be a bit intimidating to dive into, but this outfit makes it a bit easier, matching the rod, reel, and line. The rod’s tip is sensitive enough to feel almost all takes, and the reel’s close frame will keep thinner lines—and your leader—out of the reel.

How to Choose a Fly Fishing Combo

There are a few things to consider when choosing the best fly fishing combo for beginners. Is this for a little kid or an adult? What type of water will you be fishing, and what type of species will you be targeting? Generally speaking, I  like to fish 3-weights to 6-weights for trout. A 7-weight, for me, is an ideal largemouth bass rod. For inshore saltwater (bonefish, redfish, striped bass), 8-weights to 10-weights usually do the trick. And the big fish—tarpon, big jacks, sharks—require 11-weights and above. Though some people start their fly angling careers on big fish, I’ve always believed that the best rod for a beginner is a smaller one, maybe a 4-weight  or 5-weight rod, that’s 8 feet 6 inches long (for kids, a 7-foot rod works well). These rods are versatile (they can catch bluegills and trout) and feel good in the hand. Larger rods take more getting used to when casting and can impede quick progress, especially for kids.

FAQs

Read Next: Best Fly Reels for Trout, Saltwater, Big Game, and More

Final Thoughts on the Best Fly Fishing Combos for Beginners

For the most part, cost is not something you really need to consider with these combos. Almost all combos for beginners are priced fairly. And though some of these combos are only sold online, my advice is to always try to put your hands on anything you might buy in the fly fishing world.

The post Best Fly Fishing Combos for Beginners of 2023 appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Best Old-School Bass Fly		Clouser Minnow	SEE IT
Best Modern Bass Fly		Game Changer	SEE IT
Best All-Around Bass Fly		Lunch Money	SEE IT

A lot of angers get overwhelmed when searching for the best bass flies. They see the staggering number of soft plastics, jigs, and other baits used by the conventional crowd and think they have to follow suit. And while you could fill a boatload of fly boxes with all sorts of different patterns, you don’t really have to. Whether you’re fishing a farm pond, a small river, a sprawling reservoir, or something in between, you really only need a few different patterns in various colors and sizes to catch bass.

The key to building a box full of the best bass flies is to think about the major food sources you’re trying to imitate. Then you can start thinking about things like water depth, clarity, and the conditions you’ll be fishing in. Water depth is especially important when fly fishing for bass, and a well-stocked bass box should include flies that fish well at various depths.

As a starting point, I’ve picked out 12 of my favorite patterns for catching largemouth and smallmouth bass on the fly. These have become my go-to flies for fishing the rivers of Central Texas where I live, but they’ll work anywhere that bass swim.

How We Broke Down the 12 Best Bass Flies

At their most basic level, there are two types of bass flies: surface patterns and subsurface patterns. For this collection of the 12 best bass flies, I’ve included four surface patterns along with eight subsurface patterns. These are a mix of old-school and modern flies, and they cover the gamut of typical bass forage, including baitfish, frogs, crawfish, and bugs.  

The reason for this breakdown is because I typically spend at least 75 percent of my time fishing subsurface patterns. (This goes up to 90 percent or more during the colder months.)

I tend to use streamers and other subsurface flies more often because of their versatility. You can adjust the depth of your presentation by changing the size and weight of the fly along with your retrieval speed. For example, you can strip a clouser minnow fast and swim it just beneath the surface, or you can pause, let it sink and slowly dredge the bottom. (This is also where sinking lines come into play, but for the purposes of this article we’ll imagine that we’re fishing strictly with floating lines.)

Topwater flies certainly have their place, though. Bass love to attack frogs and other prey from below, and even when they aren’t looking up, they’re drawn to commotion on the surface. Beginners will appreciate this style of fishing because they don’t have to worry about strike detection—the eats are rarely subtle. The visual aspect is the main reason why surface flies are so fun to fish.

The Best Bass Flies for Surface Patterns: Reviews & Recommendations

Bass Popper

Umpqua Feather Merchants

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Key Features

• Sizes 2, 6, and 10
• Key Colors: Yellow/Orange, Olive, Chartreuse, and White

Pros

• Fun to fish, especially for beginners who want to see the take
• The chugging and popping noises are like a dinner bell for bass
• Optional weed guard helps when fishing in heavy cover

Cons

• Poppers are wind resistant, which means they aren’t the easiest flies to cast

No list of the best bass flies would be complete without the trusty Bass Popper. A painted hard-foam body with a marabout tail, this is a modern and durable take on the classic hair bug. It’s at the top of this list for one simple reason: it’s far and away my favorite fly to catch bass on.

I tend to fish poppers most in the springtime and early summer, when bass are on the move and the water is warming. During peak summer, I’ll typically fish poppers in the mornings and evenings, when bass are more likely to be looking up.  

I always cast poppers near some type of structure or cover, and I generally fish them tight to the bank. Give the fly some action simply by stripping line with your rod tip pointed at the fly. Short, quick strips are the name of the game, and the harder you strip, the more the fly will audibly “pop” on the surface. You can vary up your retrieval rate until you find out what the bass want, but the pause is just as important as the strip. I always work plenty of long and short pauses into my retrieve, and this is often when a bass will strike.

Gurgler

Solitude Flies

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Key Features

• Sizes 1/0 and 2
• Key Colors: Chartreuse, Yellow, Pink

Pros

• A great surface pattern when you need a quieter presentation than a popper
• Durable and inexpensive

Cons

• A utilitarian fly that won’t win any beauty contests

A Gurgler is basically an unweighted streamer with a piece of foam on the top. This helps it ride just under the surface. It pushes more water but is much quieter than a popper, so tie this on when you need a stealthier approach.

While it’s arguably more popular in saltwater circles these days, the gurgler was originally designed for striped and largemouth bass. Because it isn’t a precise imitation of any particular prey item, loud colors like chartreuse, yellow, and pink are all good bets.

I tend to incorporate longer, more methodical strips when fishing a gurgler compared to a popper. Because it lacks a weed guard, this fly fishes better in open water than dense cover.   

Dahlberg Diver

Umpqua Feather Merchants

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Key Features

• Sizes 2 and 6
• Key Colors: Yellow, Olive

Pros

• A time-tested pattern and all-around bass slayer
• With a built-in weed guard, these are great for fishing heavy cover

Cons

• Wind resistant and harder to cast

Larry Dahlberg designed this hair bug for finicky bass that were willing to chase a popper but wouldn’t commit. It’s an old-school surface fly that has spawned new-school varieties like the Joom Diver, which is made of foam and is more durable than the diving bug.

Still, there’s something about spun deer hair that makes these flies special. This could be partly sentimental, as they harken back to the pre-synthetic era (before foam became a mainstay in the fly-fishing world.) But I think it’s also because of the more natural movement and “breathability” that deer hair provides.

Fish it like a popper but with slightly longer and smoother strips. Instead of chugging along the surface, the diving bug will make a wake and slide just underneath the water when stripped. This is often all it takes to draw a savage strike from a bass.

Foam Spider

Umpqua Feather Merchants

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Key Features

• Sizes 4, 8, and 10
• Key Colors: Black, Yellow, Olive

Pros

• Great fly for beginners because it’s easy to cast and you can see the fish eat
• Doesn’t require as much finesse and movement as a popper or diver

Cons

• If you’re in a waterbody that holds panfish, you might catch more bluegills than bass with this one

A lot of anglers overlook the smaller foam bugs in favor of the bigger and bolder poppers, but bass eat insects too. Fish a foam bug during the early mornings and evenings, when hatches are most likely to occur.  

A foam spider was one of the first flies I learned how to tie, and it’s a great starting point for new fly anglers who just want to catch something. Foam bugs are hell on bluegill and other panfish, but they’ll catch bass of all sizes as well—especially in creeks and smaller rivers.

The Best Bass Flies for Subsurface: Reviews & Recommendations

Clouser Minnow

Umpqua Feather Merchants

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Key Features

• Sizes 2 and 6
• Key Colors: Chartreuse/White, Tan/White, Pink/White, Silver/White

Pros

• A classic bass fly that is arguably the most popular baitfish pattern ever created
• Durable and easy to tie
• Versatile pattern that can imitate different prey at different depths by changing up color, materials, and the weight of the eyes

Cons

• Your fishing buddies might ding you for lack of originality

The OG baitfish pattern, Bob Clouser invented this fly for Susquehanna River smallmouth. Anglers soon learned that it was just as effective on other species in other places, and I’d be willing to bet that more bass (and more species of bass) have been caught on a Clouser Minnow than just about any other pattern.

There’s a reason why 36 years after it was invented, the Clouser Minnow is still the #1 best-selling fly for saltwater and warmwater species. Sure, there are other, more innovative, and more “realistic” looking baitfish patterns out there. But in terms of timelessness and versatility, the Clouser Minnow is in a class of its own.

The beauty of this sparsely tied baitfish pattern lies in its simplicity. It’s one of the cheapest and easiest bass flies to tie. You can change the colors of the bucktail to match the batfish in your area, and you can add or remove flash depending on the situation. You can also use eyes of various weights and change the speed of your retrieve to fish it at different depths.

Near-Nuff Crayfish

Dave Whitlock

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Key Features

• Sizes 4 and 8
• Key Colors: Dirty Olive, Orange, Brown

Pros

• A generalist crawfish pattern
• Sinks quickly and stays deep

Cons

• Not the most realistic looking crawfish pattern available

A box of the best bass flies would be incomplete without at least one crawfish pattern. Bass (and especially smallies) love mudbugs, and I’ve lost count of the times I’ve seen little orange claws sticking out of a bass’ gullet.  

There are certainly more realistic crawfish patterns out there, but Dave Whitlock’s Near-Nuff Crayfish has stood the test of time precisely because of its generalist appearance. As its name implies, the fly looks “close enough” to a crawfish without trying to be an exact copy of one.  

Crawfish patterns should be fished slow and deep. After giving it time to sink to the bottom, make short, slow strips to hop and crawl this fly along the rocks.

Creek Crawler Crayfish

Hada’s

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Key Features

• Size 4
• Key Colors: Dirty Orange

Pros

• A solid crawfish imitation that has good movement underwater
• Sinks like a rock

Cons

• Claws are more basic than some other crawfish patters

More of an exact imitation than the Near-Nuff, Hada’s Creek Crawler is a newer pattern that works well on smallmouth and largemouth bass in rivers and lakes. The epoxy-coated body helps it sink faster than other crawfish patterns, allowing you to get in the zone quickly.

Tied on a size 4 hook, it’s relatively sleek and small compared to some other crawfish patterns. The Gulley Craw, which is much bulkier and heavier, would be on the other end of this spectrum. But when targeting picky bass in ultra-clear water, sometimes less is more.

Fish it just like you would any other crawfish pattern. This fly also works well on carp when fished extra-slow in the shallows.

EP Rattle Fly

Enrico Puglisi

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Key Features

• Sizes 2-6
• Key Colors: Grey/White, Chartreuse/White, Black/Red

Pros

• An excellent, modern baitfish pattern
• Has a bulky profile that draws strikes from discerning fish
• Internal rattle gives it added noise and vibration

Cons

• A little pricier than some other options

The EP Rattle Fly is part of a larger collection of baitfish patterns developed by Enrico Puglisi. The EP Peanut Butter, EP Mullet, and EP Minnow are other flies in the series that imitate baitfish of various sizes and shapes.

Although Puglisi designed these as saltwater flies, they were quickly adopted by bass fishermen. The key to these flies is the material itself. EP fiber is a durable and translucent material that moves like a cross between bucktail and marabou. And because it’s synthetic, the material doesn’t absorb water, which makes the fly easier to cast.

The Rattle Fly is one of the best bass flies out there because it has visual appeal, along with added noise and vibration. The rattle triggers a bass’ lateral line, which helps draw strikes in stained or off-color water.  

Lunch Money

Umpqua Feather Merchants

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Key Features

• Sizes 2 and 6
• Key Colors: Tan, Craw, Shad

Pros

• A jack-of-all trades baitfish pattern that screams, “eat me”
• Rides hook-point up, which helps decrease snags

Cons

• The tail and rubber legs need to be checked every so often because they can get twisted around the hook after it gets chewed on

Bennett’s Lunch Money is at the top of my rotation these days, and over the last three years, I’ve caught more big bass with this fly than just about any other. This is partly because it was designed by commercial tyer Matt Bennet specifically for the waters I typically fish. Bennet set out to create the perfect bite-sized baitfish pattern for Central Texas rivers. I believe he succeeded, and I’m sure this fly would work just as well in other parts of bass country.

I’m partial to the tan color, with the white “shad” color coming in close second. I’ve had good success with the orange “craw” color as well, as it makes a decent crawfish imitation when fished deep and slow.  

As with the other streamer patterns, experimenting with the retrieval rate will help you dial in a pattern and get more bites. But short, quick strips are usually the way to go. This choppy rhythym helps the fly breathe and causes the rubber legs to jiggle, which drives bass wild.        

Bank Robber Sculpin

Mossy Creek Fly Fishing

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Key Features

• Size 2
• Key Colors: Tan/Natural

Pros

• A well-designed streamer that’s perfect for pounding the banks
• Articulated body helps it dance and wiggle more than a typical streamer

Cons

• Lack of a stinger hook sometimes leads to short strikes

This fly is primarily a sculpin imitation, so if the water you’re fishing is home to sculpins, it’s a must-have. While it was originally designed as a trout fly, it works great in warmwater environments as well.

It’s part of a larger group of subsurface flies known as articulated flies. These modern, segmented flies have one or more sections that move independently, which allow them to wiggle, shake, shimmy, and dance as they are stripped through the water.

This is a great fly for pounding the banks. I tend to retrieve it a little faster than some of the other best bass flies on this list. This keeps it higher in the water column, which helps prevent snags and allows me to watch it work.

Mini Sex Dungeon

Montana Fly Company

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Key Features

• Size 6
• Key Colors: Olive, Tan/Grizzly, Yellow, White

Pros

• Another modern, articulated streamer that has earned a spot in my box of the best bass flies
• Does double-duty as a trout fly
• Two hooks helps you stick more fish

Cons

• A little harder to cast than some of the other subsurface patterns on this list

A cross between a muddler minnow and wooly bugger on steroids, the Mini Sex Dungeon was designed by Kelly Galloup for meat-eating brown trout in the Madison River. But this articulated streamer is money on bass, too. It’s one of those flies that fishes just as good as it looks.

If you’re looking for something with a little more heft, you can move up to the full-sized Sex Dungeon tied on size 2 hooks. Use more natural colors like olive and tan to imitate typical bass forage. Gaudier colors like bright yellow and white will help elicit more reactionary strikes.

You can fish this fly in all sorts of waterbodies, but I’ve found that it works best in rivers. Having a little current helps the fly dance and breathe even when you aren’t stripping it. Try swinging it through a deep, rocky run for smallies, and hang on tight.

Game Changer

Umpqua Feather Merchants

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Key Features

• Sizes 1/0, 2, and 6
• Key Colors: Olive/Tan, Baby Shad, Baby Rainbow, Black/Purple

Pros

• An uber-realistic baitfish pattern, and one of the most innovative fly designs in recent years
• A variety of sizes, colors, and materials helps you match different baitfish species

Cons

• Expensive

The name of this fly says it all. More a family of flies than one specific pattern, Blane Chocklett’s Signature Game Changer series has revolutionized the world of articulated streamers. Instead of having a single pivot joint, these flies are made up of four to seven independent wire segments. The result is more like a lure than a fly, and this is the closest you’ll get to throwing a swimbait on a fly rod.

The Game Changer family incorporates several different sizes, from the 2-inch Micro Finesse Game Changer to the 11-inch Hybrid Game Changer. These can (and have) caught nearly every predatory fish you can think of, including muskie and saltwater species.

When targeting big bass, I’m partial to the 3.5-inch Finesse Game Changer, which is tied on a size 2 hook. I typically size down to the Micro in clearer water. The newest addition to this growing family of modern flies (and one that I’m dying to try out) is the Changer Craw.

The only downside to these flies is how much they cost. Because it’s so time-consuming to tie and requires specific materials like the Articulated Fish-Spine, it’s easily the priciest fly on this list. (Most are between $8 and $15 apiece, but they the 11-inch Hybrid version will set you back $45.) For those willing to shell out the extra bucks, though, this is easily one of the best bass flies available today.

How to Choose the Best Bass Flies

Now that you have a box full of the best bass flies, you need to pick which one to tie on first. In time, you’ll find your “confidence flies” that work day-in and day-out. These are always the best ones to start with. From there, you can experiment with different sizes and colors, or change the pattern altogether if you’re not getting any bites.

Read Next: The Best Fly Fishing Gifts for the Angler in Your Life

I like to fish surface flies early and late in the day, when the sun is low on the water. The rest of the time I’ll typically fish subsurface flies near shade and/or structure. I’ll typically start with darker colors on overcast days and use brighter colors when it’s sunny.

Change up your presentation before you change your fly. This can be as simple as speeding up or slowing your retrieve, or it could mean fishing another water type altogether.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

I could easily go on to list dozens more fly patterns, and some of these would catch just as many (if not more) bass than the flies listed above under the right circumstances. As with all fishing, experimentation is the name of the game. Over time, you’ll find your go-to patterns that work best under different conditions.

The post The 12 Best Bass Flies for Catching Largemouth and Smallmouth appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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IF YOU DIDN’T know better, you may have assumed the fish was dead. You could have easily walked by it, a passing glance convincing you it was just a rotten log. Its dull gray back is the same color as the mud. It camouflages beautifully with the detritus on the bottom of a shallow swamp in early spring before the lilies bloom and inject it with fresh greenery. Look closer, though, and the fish takes shape. It’s lying perfectly still save for the dorsal fin that runs nearly the length of its back. Like the lines on a heartbeat monitor, the fin ripples in undulating waves that start near the head and flow back to the tail. I cast a white tube a few feet past the fish and let it settle. The target doesn’t flinch. I hop the lure a little closer. No movement. Closer still, but there’s no reaction. The next hop will drop the tube right on its nose and I brace myself to swing. When it lands, the seemingly comatose fish erupts like a bullet, sucking up the bait with such force and violence that I swear you can hear the vacuum and snap of its jaws coming together on dry land. It’s that reaction, that moment, that made me fall in love with bowfins, a historically maligned species that’s creeping its way into the limelight.

Chasing Dino DNA

Bowfin are a fish of many names. In the deep South, they’re called choupique (pronounced shoe pick). In Middle America, they’re mudfish. In the North and into Canada, they’re grinnel. Dogfish, mud pike, swamp trout: The list goes on and on, but while the names might vary by region, what these fish have always shared across their vast range is a lack of respect and general disinterest as a rod-and-reel target. If anything, they are merely by-catch to be tossed up on a bank and left to die. In many regions, in fact, it is widely believed and accepted that a bowfin’s sole purpose is to kill mass quantities of more desirable species like bass and crappies.

Except within a few niche groups and cultures, bowfins have little value as table fare. Their flesh, so I’ve been told, turns mushy very quickly after the fish dies, and even when cooked quickly it often has an overwhelmingly muddy flavor. Still, anglers aren’t inclined to dispose of other by-catch species, so why bowfins? It’s difficult to deny that they have a reputation for being nasty. They evoke a bit of fear, much like spiders, which many people instinctually squish under their shoe without knowing what kind it is, or if it can cause any harm. The reality is that bowfins, like spiders, do more good than harm to an ecosystem. They may be a little mean. But they’ve had to be to survive this long, and it’s their meanness that makes them such worthy opponents.

In 2021, a research team from Harvard University made a fascinating discovery. By studying bowfins from around the country, they determined that there are actually two lineages of these fish swimming in our waters. Previously, scientists had believed that all bowfins were genetically identical and had remained relatively unchanged since they first appeared during the Triassic period nearly 250 million years ago. While the differences between the two species may not be easily recognizable to the untrained eye, the discovery of the two lines has been a catalyst for more research, which brings with it more protections for the fish. And make no mistake, that research is the equivalent of studying living dinosaurs à la Jurassic Park because bowfins are, indeed, dinosaurs.

They have immense jaw power, arguably making them stronger than all other freshwater fish in North America. Rows of conical teeth angle backward toward the throat to ensure nothing they clamp down on gets away. A bowfin’s skull is as thick and hard as granite. They can extract oxygen from the water through their gills or let their tubular nostrils protrude above the surface and breathe air. Combine that ability with their tough exterior and tenacity and it helps explain why come hell, high water, drought, or even pollution, bowfins have endured. It’s also that engineering and resilience that makes these fish more interesting to me than many other nonnative glam species. I’m certainly not the only one who feels this way.

Clever Girls

According to Drew Price, a veteran guide on Lake Champlain who specializes in targeting trophy bowfins, these fish have also survived for millions of years because they’re smart—much smarter, in fact, than many fish we routinely put on a pedestal for their alleged brain power.

“I love brown trout,” Price tells me. “I love to fish for them, but while they’re selective and spooky, they’re not smart. But bowfin have a natural curiosity, and animals that have that are exhibiting intelligence. A fish that will swim up to a boat to see what it is, or swim over when it hears something splashing, is intelligent. I’ve had bowfins look me straight in the eyes.”

That curiosity is what led Price to develop what he calls his “splash-bang” technique. While plying Champlain’s coves and shallows in his skiff or canoe, he’ll splash the water with his pushpole and even tap the sides of the hull. Quite often the bowfins will swarm. Though Price will use conventional tackle on occasion, his true passion and specialty is fly fishing. He’s even led clients to tippet-class record fish, since Champlain, because of its size, depth, and cold winters, grows bigger bowfin than many other waters.

Price has been singing the praises of bowfin for nearly 20 years, though it’s been only within the last 10 that people have started to listen. His reputation as one of the leading bowfin advocates in the country was made when he guided Jeremy Wade on River Monsters in 2013. That led to a slew of other show appearances, including on the Orvis podcast, after famed fly angler and instructor Tom Rosenbauer developed a bowfin jones after hanging out with Price. Although Price has been a guide for hire since 2008, he’s seen a noticeable uptick in bowfin bookings over the past few years.

Price attributes the spark in interest to several factors. We’ve seen that angler obsession with sight-fishing grows when social media is flooded with sexy drone shots of rising trout, pike trashing poppers, and giant trevallies charging across flats to smoke a streamer. Bowfin, however, provide that sight-fishing rush for far less money and a lot less time in the air. It also doesn’t hurt that they’re challenging. Sticking a hook in their rock-hard jaws takes skill. When you do stick it, buckle up, because bowfins don’t quit. They will snap rods. They will bend hooks. And even in the net, a bowfin will look at you “with malice in its eyes,” as Price puts it. Ultimately, though, Price believes it’s the gradual reckoning with the importance of preserving heritage in nature that is flipping the tide in the bowfin’s favor.

“Bowfins are probably the most American fish out there,” he says. “They have been here longer than any other species. They have remained unchanged since the Cretaceous period. I think people are beginning to appreciate native species and what they have to offer.”

I wholeheartedly agree with Price, but I believe it’s only one aspect of the bowfin’s unfolding success story. The other is rooted, for better or worse, in increased angling pressure.

Hidden in Plain View

The cover of the February-March 2021 issue of Fly Fisherman magazine featured a shot of renowned fly angler and tier Blane Chocklett lifting a massive bowfin out of the water. The main text on the cover read, “Exotic Species in Your Backyard.” At a time when media seems to push us to drool over far-flung destinations we’ll likely never visit, I found this sentiment poignant. I’ve always preached that you can’t call yourself a true angler if you only travel to fish and snub your nose at what’s right down the street. The angling opportunities in your backyard, whether they’re world class or mediocre at best, should be what defines you, not the fancy places you’ve traveled to. The funny thing is, bowfin live in a lot of backyards, including my own, but it took me about 30 years to find them.

As a kid growing up in the ’80s and ’90s, bowfins weren’t on my radar. The only recollection I have of seeing any media devoted to them during those formative years was on a TNN fishing show shot on Lake Champlain. It didn’t particularly resonate with me because I viewed them as something I couldn’t catch. But they were. And they were right under my nose.

In many parts of the country, bowfins live on the fringes. To use my home water, the Delaware River, as an example, the state fishing compendium has always listed them as an available species, but in all my years wading for smallmouths with my dad and fishing for shad with my grandfather, we never saw or caught a bowfin. The listing seemed to me to be honorary, or historical—yes, bowfin were recorded here at some point, but there were probably only a few kicking around. The truth was there were plenty of them, but the odds of catching one in the main river were slim. They existed in pockets far up tributary arms and in vast tidally influenced swamps and floodplains that were difficult to access. Even if you could, why would you? Mucky, skinny, weed-choked water isn’t exactly prime for bass, or catfish, or crappies. I had no reason to trudge around in the mire while I was growing up. Then along came the dreaded invasive snakehead and suddenly I did.

Snake Charmed

Steve Cahn is the owner of High Octane Custom Lures, a Maryland–based company that got off the ground in 2019. Recognizing a growing interest in snakeheads among anglers in the Delmarva region, Cahn decided the timing was right to launch a line of lures aimed specifically at this market. The overriding theme of his products is toughness. His version of the Chatterbait, as an example, features stronger hooks, thicker wire, and more durable skirt material than the Chatterbaits already hanging on pegs in tackle shops. Business was slow at first, and then along came the Covid pandemic and everything changed.

For the next two years government entities prodded people to get outside. Don’t go to a party or social gathering, go out alone and explore nature. And explore they did. The bump in recreational fishing interest during that time was unprecedented, and many anglers living in the Mid-Atlantic and lower Northeast who previously may have been lukewarm to or uninterested in snakeheads saw the light. As pressure increased during the pandemic at local fishing holes, grabbing a kayak or trudging through the mud to get away from people suddenly became extremely appealing. The byproduct of this vigor for the swamp life was that more and more anglers were ending up in bowfin territory, and these fish were happy to hit the same frogs and spinnerbaits intended for snakeheads. Cahn’s business spiked so quickly that at one point he had to shut down his website to catch up on orders.

“I have absolutely seen an increase in bowfin interest over the past few years,” says Cahn. “I’ve personally developed a greater love for bowfins since I started seriously snakehead fishing. I’d even say they fight harder than snakeheads, and once people started to figure that out, bowfin just sort of went hand in hand with snakeheads. Anglers were equally happy to stick either one.”

That’s how it broke down for me, too—it’s just that it happened years before the pandemic. I fell in love with snakeheads, and as soon as the first bowfin blasted my frog, I fell in love with them, too. At the time, chasing these fish felt very underground. It was almost too easy at times because pressure was minimal. The irony is that had I known about my local bowfin population as kid, I might have experienced near-zero pressure Shangri-La. Now, I can’t help but notice that it’s getting tougher and tougher to consistently catch bowfins in spots that were fire on the regular just four or five years ago. Such is the case up and down the East Coast, and it turned out that snakeheads were both a blessing and a curse for bowfins.

Identity Crisis

When snakeheads were first discovered in Maryland in the early 2000s, it created a media firestorm. The destructiveness of the fish was so overhyped, so much fear was created around them, that anglers felt they had to do their part in the snakehead war. The problem was that bowfins and snakeheads looked similar. In time, mistaken identity became a legitimate problem. It wasn’t uncommon to see forum and social media posts of bowfins from captors who were looking to confirm if what they’d caught was a snakehead. In some cases, they cut the head off the fish first and asked questions later. For folks like me who went all-in on targeting snakeheads and bowfins, the idea of confusing the two species seemed ludicrous, because while their body types are similar, their fin structure, head shape, and coloration are very different. Still, to be blunt, there were enough anglers out there unwilling to educate themselves that over time, state wildlife agencies began posting signs at public accesses pointing out the differences between the two fish. The silver lining was that despite it taking an invasive species to cast some light on native bowfins, for the first time in many years they were creeping back into the conservation forefront.

The most critical conservation measure in the future of bowfin was already in place in most of the states posting the signs. In New Jersey and Pennsylvania specifically, it was illegal to shoot bowfins with arrows. They were afforded this protection prior to the snakehead influx because they were a native species. In the dark, however, in the heat of the moment, parsing out what’s a bowfin and what’s a snakehead when you’ve got an arrow nocked and a second to fire proved challenging for some shooters. Meanwhile, on Lake Champlain and elsewhere throughout the bowfin’s range, they are fair game for bowfishermen.

Nothing worries Drew Price more about the future of Champlain’s bowfin population than the local bowfishing community, which is why he and many other defenders of “trash fish” throughout the country share data, attend meetings, and do whatever they can to profess the importance of these fish within the ecosystem.

It’s ironic that bowfins have come to be associated with dirty, mucky water, since it only fuels the notion that they’re worthless fish living in squalor. The reality is that a healthy bowfin population points to a healthy ecosystem. These fish, like many gamefish we love, need fertile vegetation to spawn. They need an abundance of small prey to survive. They need weed cover to rear their young. Bowfins are so tough and can withstand so much that if a population naturally declines, a much worse picture for the watershed emerges than if they’re thriving.

Luckily, the champions for these fish continue to grow. Price, Cahn, and I are just a few. Dr. Solomon David, a biologist at Louisiana’s Nicholls State University, has worked tirelessly for years to get a better understanding of the role these fish play in ecosystems in the Midwest. David Graham, host of the Boundless Pursuit podcast, has been chasing bowfins across the Carolinas and Florida for decades, penning countless articles on the species and sharing his knowledge of their behavior. Even YouTube, as much as we love to rag on it for spot burning and calling too much attention to certain fisheries, is generating positive vibes about a largely overlooked and underregulated species. Years ago, when largemouth bass ruled the television airwaves, an inadvertent bowfin catch likely wouldn’t even make it on the show. Today, between dedicated backwater enthusiasts and even bass-focused content creators willing to break the mold, the bowfin is finally getting a lot more media respect.

The truth, however, is that you don’t need to become enamored with targeting bowfins to help these fish thrive. More than anything, you just need to recognize that they’ve been here longer than any other fish, and that alone—that ability to survive—should garner enough reverence to at least not want to kill them for no reason.

But if you do want to challenge yourself against these dinosaurs, the beauty of them is you can make that pursuit as hardcore or relaxed as you like. A simple piece of shrimp or shad or even hotdog (I’ve been told) will be sniffed out in short order. I’d recommend a 30-pound leader and a saltwater-grade hook, though. Take the hardest fight you remember with a bass that ate your live shiner, or the toughest battle you ever had with a big channel catfish, and multiply it times five. That’s the bowfin. And whether you become obsessed with catching them or just want to say you gave it a shot, you won’t forget that first one.

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Best Overall		Simms G3 Guide Waders	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary The best all-around recreational option without a hefty price tag.
Best Everyday		Simms G4Z Guide Waders	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Durable waders with easy-access pockets designed for spending every day on the water.
Best for the Money		Frogg Toggs Canyon II	SEE IT	LEARN MORE	Summary Breathable, lightweight, and will keep you dry without breaking the bank.

Fly fishing waders are one of the most intimidating purchases an angler can make. They’re a critical safety element when fishing in lower temperatures and can make or break a day on the water. Even at the low end, they’re an expensive accessory in a sport defined by expensive accessories. In addition to price and safety, there are many other factors to consider when it comes to choosing a pair of the best fly fishing waders like durability, comfort, insulation, and purpose. Even when you finally do land on a pair of waders, the flaws might not be immediately obvious until you actually start fishing in them.

For this review, I tested the best fly fishing waders on the market to help make this process a little easier. Through first-hand use and interviews with experienced guides and industry experts, I’ve narrowed down the list of options to help anglers of all skill levels have a safer, drier day on the water.  

• Best Overall: Simms G3 Guide Waders
• Best Rugged: Orvis PRO Zipper Waders
• Best Everyday: Simms G4Z Guide Waders
• Best Under $300: Simms Tributary
• Best for the Money: Frogg Toggs Canyon II

How to Choose the The Best Fly Fishing Waders

First and foremost, consider how many days you’ll realistically use your waders and how much stress you plan to put on them. If you plan to spend as much time as possible in them, then you should probably invest in a high-end pair of waders that will handle the wear-n-tear. If you only plan to fish a couple of times throughout the year or a few quick trips, buy a pair of waders that’ll keep you dry and your wallet green. 

When it comes to dialing in the specific size and fit you’ll need, there are five key measurements to consider: chest, waist, hips, inseam, and foot size. Most wader companies provide a sizing chart that incorporates all of these and allows you to select the perfect wader size for you. For an additional fee, Simms takes this a step further by offering customized wader options to better accommodate anglers of all shapes and sizes. 

The Best Fly Fishing Waders: Reviews & Recommendations

Best Overall: Simms G3 Guide Waders

Simms

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Key Features

• 3- and 4-layer Gore-Tex fabric
• Exterior fly patch
• Air mesh suspenders
• Large array of sizes

Pros

• Breathable
• No lace hooks
• Durable

Cons

• More expensive than some competitors

Simms is the unquestioned leader in the industry when it comes to waders. Some notable updates to these G3 waders include the addition of air mesh suspenders, which are significantly more comfortable than the solid fabric suspenders of the older models. Simms also managed to make the waders more supple and comfortable using a 3-layer Gore-Tex fabric upper section and improved the durability of the lower section using 4-layer Gore-Tex material. This results in a more comfortable, breathable wader that’s noticeably more tear and puncture resistant. 

Simms always focuses on building waders and products that solve problems or otherwise improve the angling experience. While it’s one of the smallest updates, nowhere is this mindset more noticeable on the G3 than with the removal of the pesky lace hooks on the built-in gravel guards. These hooks come standard on nearly all waders, and for the life of me I can’t figure out why. They rarely accomplish their limited task, and when they inevitably come unhooked, they create a seemingly magnetic attraction to fly line and cause constant foul-ups. 

There are a number of other quality additions, from zippered and fleece lined side pouches to the exterior fly patch, and all of them create an excellent wader with all the features a hardcore angler needs for a successful day on the water. The Simms G3 aren’t the top-of-the-line wader on the market, nor are they the cheapest. However, they do provide the absolute best all-around option for a dedicated recreational angler looking for high-end quality without dropping high-end money. 

Learn more about the Simms G3 Guide Wader in my full review.

Best Rugged: Orvis PRO Zipper Waders

Orvis

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Key Features

•  TIZIP Masterseal waterproof zipper
• Removable knee pads
• Sizes: S-XXL

Pros

• Durable
• Front access zipper
• Multiple pockets

Cons

• Not as comfortable as others at similar prices

The minute I slid these waders on, I had the impression of stepping into a suit of armor. While they lack some of the suppleness and comfort of other top end waders, the PRO Zippers have plenty of durability. I personally used and abused a pair all winter long on the freestone rivers and spring creeks of Virginia. I deliberately plowed through thorn bushes and brambles and slid down ragged, rocky banks. Despite my best efforts, the waders never sprung a leak or had one pinhole puncture.

Other than being the most bulletproof waders on the market, The PRO Zippers have a few other features that level them up and justify the higher price point. The most obvious is the TIZIP Masterseal waterproof zipper. After using these waders with a front zipper, I can never go back. 

The PRO Zippers also provide other unique comfort enhancing elements like the the removable OrthoLite X25 knee pads. They also offer an impressive amount of support and protection if you have to shimmy down rocky trails or stealthily approach a bank. You can even remove the knee pads for less adverse terrain or smaller streams. And two zippered and fleece lined pockets on either side provide warmth and decent storage, while the two front zippered pockets can hold smaller items or tippet. They might run higher than other options, but if you’re looking for high-quality waders that will stand up to rugged terrain and constant use, the Orvis PRO Zippers fit the bill.

Best Everyday: Simms G4Z Guide Waders 

Simms

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Key Features

• 3-layer Gore-Tex upper, 4-layer Gore-Tex lower
• Two zippered chest pockets with docking stations
• Adjustable air-mesh suspenders

Pros

• Extremely durable
• Easy access pockets and docking stations
• Compression molded stocking feet

Cons

• Pricey

As the moniker suggests, the Simms G4 series is everything about the G3 taken up a notch. Composed of a similar 3-layer Gore-Tex upper and a 4-layer Gore-Tex lower as the G3, the G4Zs provide exceptional durability and puncture protection. While the G4Zs match durability with other high-end waders on this list, they separate from the pack in comfort and wearability. They provide a custom, tailored fit with compression molded stocking feet and patented front and back leg seams that significantly increase mobility and enhance durability by taking stress off the seam connections.

Simms’ G4Zs also provide a plethora of accessories and enhancements that make them a go-to wader for people who make a living on the water. The easy access front zipper system and two large, zippered chest pockets with built-in retractor docking stations provide exceptional storage for tools and terminal tackle. Two more zippered, fleece lined pockets add storage and hand warming ability as well. Like other high-end Simms waders, the added exterior fly patch provides quick and easy fly access on the water. 

I spoke with several guides and the consensus remained the same: they’d wear these waders to bed if it made sense. Well, maybe not to bed, but the level of praise they all shared for the G4Zs can’t be overstated. As people who make a living on the water, guides require comfort and durability day in and day out, and the Simms G4Zs provide them with that. 

Best Under $300: Simms Tributary

Simms

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Key Features

• 3-layer polyester upper, 4-layer polyester lower
• Fleece-lined pockets
• Single, front-zip pocket

Pros

• Lightweight
• Simple, effective design
• Budget friendly

Cons

• Minimal storage space

While they may not have the frills or accessories of high end waders, the Tributary series will get you in the water and keep you dry. If you’re new to fly fishing or need a durable, comfortable option that won’t break the bank, the Tributary series is hard to beat. 

Built with a 3-layer waterproof polyester upper and 4-layer lower, the Tributary series lacks some durability and breathability but still has the same quality Simms tailoring, which helps separate them from other waders at this price point. They’re significantly more comfortable compared to other polyester waders I’ve worn, and the fleece lined reach-through chest pocket provides exceptional hand warmth. And the built in gravel guards help eliminate punctures and tears.

Storage space is limited, but the zippered front chest pocket has enough room to hold fly boxes and other crucial gear on the water. To be honest, there’s an element of simplicity that I appreciate in these waders when compared to the plethora of zippers and pockets on more high-end waders. The Tributary waders are a great choice for casual wades or quick trips where you only need one fly box and a few spools of tippet to get fishing. 

Best for the Money: Frogg Toggs Canyon II

Frogg Toggs

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Key Features

• Sizes: S-2XL
• Gravel guards
• 4mm neoprene booties
• 4-ply nylon upper
• Stocking foot
• Includes a wading belt

Pros 

• Breathable
• Lightweight

Cons

• No waterproof pocket

I rarely need chest waders, so it doesn’t make sense for me to drop $600 on them. But, I also want waders that will perform the few times of year I do throw them on. At around $130, my Frogg Toggs Canyon II waders fit those requirements perfectly. I bought them ahead of a Salmon River trip and lived in them for three days as I stalked salmon in the riffles. I’ve since used them for my winter trout fishing with no leaks or issues. I like the comfortable shoulder straps, and the breathability is nice to prevent sweating while hiking into un-pressured waters. The Canyon II has two small pockets—one internal and one external. I typically use the internal pocket for important items like my license and keys. I use the water resistant external pocket to keep my phone at easy reach for photos. The Canyon II lacks the pockets, reinforced knees, and refined fit of premium waders, and you’ll also need to layer underneath them when fishing in cold water. But if your type of fishing doesn’t demand those added features or you’re just getting started, these waders will fit the bill nicely. —Scott Einsmann

Read Next: Best Fly Fishing Vests

FAQs

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Since 1898, OL has been a leading authority in testing and reviewing hunting gear, fishing tackle, guns and shooting equipment, and much more. We have more than a century-long history of evaluating products, and we’re now bringing that expertise to online reviews. Our editors are experienced outdoorsmen and women, and most importantly, we’re trained journalists. We prioritize field testing and objective data when reviewing products. We conduct interviews with gear manufacturers and engineers as well as outdoor experts so that our readers have an understanding of how and why a product works—or doesn’t.

Advertising does not influence our gear reviews and it never will. While we always focus our coverage on standout products—because we want our readers to be aware of the latest and greatest gear—we also cover the flaws and quirks of any given product.

Final Thoughts on the Best Fly Fishing Waders

Having the best fly fishing waders can make a day on the water, and they’re a critical element to fishing in lower temperatures. There are a wide range of options to choose from, both in complexity and pricing, so consider what makes sense to you before diving in. From a safety standpoint, as well as comfort, it’s important to choose the right pair of waders for the job. Not all waders are created equal, so take the time to examine what factors are most important to you, and then, you can invest in a new pair with confidence.

• Best Overall: Simms G3 Guide Waders
• Best Rugged: Orvis PRO Zipper Waders
• Best Everyday: Simms G4Z Guide Waders
• Best Under $300: Simms Tributary
• Best for the Money: Frogg Toggs Canyon II

The post The Best Fly Fishing Waders for 2023, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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Step back in time ten years or so and fly fishing for carp was exploding. It became so popular that it served as fodder for fly fishing films, spawned new guide services, turned previously unknown waters into destinations, and even prompted big manufacturers to produce carp-specific lines and rods. The hype has since simmered, partially because many of the anglers who got sucked in early learned quickly that those “dumb” carp aren’t that easy to fool on a fly. 

The reality is that carp aren’t stupid bottom feeders, which is, subsequently, why many people like me continued to target them long after the frenzy ebbed. It’s the challenge that makes them so fun. However, it’s not quite as complicated as some fly fishing media would have you believe and your success depends more upon where you target carp than what you cast at them. So, here’s a my no B.S. guide to fly fishing for carp. Whether you’re new to the challenge or ready to give it another go after some frustration, this will get your drag screaming faster. 

Best Fly Rods for Carp Fishing

Choosing a rod and reel combo for carp is kind of tricky. People ask me about it often, and the problem is that carp sizes vary so drastically. If you look at trout, a standard 5-weight rod is perfectly capable of handling the occasional 20-plus-inch fish you might hook. That same 5-weight would be fine for carp, too, if they’re in the 5- to 8-pound range. But a 12-plus-pounder might not hit the net. A 20-pounder? Forget it. Make no mistake, part of the appeal of carp is that they positively rip when they’re on the end of the line. There’s a strong chance you will see your fly line backing come racing off your reel. So, it’s important to have an idea of the average sized carp in the water you’re fishing. You should also have an estimate of the maximum sized carp in that water. 

White River Fly Shop Classic SS Fly Rod

White River Fly Shop

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It’s my belief that you’re better off being over gunned than under gunned for these fish, which is why I always recommend an 8-weight rod. Even 3- to 6-pound carp will have the strength to bend it deeply, and on streams where they may not have as much room to run, you may need to muscle them away from log jams or rocks. Should you luck into a behemoth weighing north of 12 or 15 pounds, an 8-weight will provide plenty of backbone. 

Redington Behemoth Fly Reel

Redington

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I’m not suggesting you need to run out and buy a saltwater-grade reel with the best sealed drag system on the market for carp, but you do want to make sure your reel’s drag is both adjustable and can handle a few sizzling runs. My favorite carp reel is the Redington Behemoth, as it’s both tough as nails and reasonably priced. Any full floating line will suffice for these fish, but leader and tippet sizes will naturally vary by fly size and carp size. What I can tell you is that I’d never use anything lighter than 3X tippet, even for small carp, and I’d rarely use anything heavier than 15-pound tippet because the stiffness can make flies look unnatural and turn the fish off. 

Carp Species and Types

In my opinion, nothing is more critical than understanding the type of carp you’re targeting, which I break down into two categories: Wild carp and “neighborhood carp.” Yes, all carp are technically wild, but the labels speak more to their environments. My version of wild carp are those that live in places where they don’t have much interaction with humans. These could be carp feeding in a country stream out in the hills or carp in the Great Lakes. During the height of the carp fly craze, most anglers raced to places that featured “wild carp,” and quickly learned that these are the harder fish to catch. 

Wild carp tend to be spookier. They are more intune to a misstep in the stream or the cracking of a branch at the wrong time. More importantly, they are going to feed on natural forage. This means it becomes far more critical to “match the hatch,” be it stonefly nymphs, crayfish, or caddis nymphs that they’re slurping up. Granted, hooking a wild carp is arguably more rewarding because it often takes more patience and skill. 

Conversely, “neighborhood carp” are the ones that live in county park ponds, in streams flanked by bike trails, and public waters that see a lot of traffic. You might think that these fish would be more difficult to catch, but I’ve found the opposite to be true. These carp are used to joggers, dog walkers, and anglers targeting other species. Importantly, they are more apt to “taste” a wide variety of things that simply look like they might be food because I believe they see a wider variety of forage, be it Power Bait intended for stocked trout or bread thrown in the water for ducks. Therefore, fly selection becomes easier because you don’t always have to match the hatch. All you’re really trying to do is present something a carp might think is something edible.

In either scenario, what you want is a lot of shots. The more clean presentations you get to make to happy, relaxed fish during an outing, the higher the likelihood that one of those shots will turn into an eat. To give you some context, my two most memorable carp days were complete opposite scenarios. I once landed a 15 pounder on a quiet stream in the wilderness after crouching in silence for an hour waiting for the fish to get into perfect casting position. It was one of only two fish I presented to all day. The most carp I ever stuck in one day was in the middle of a New York City park in the Bronx River. It was so loaded with fish that you got another chance or two around every bend, and the constant foot traffic meant they weren’t easily spooked. The bottom line is your location plays a huge role in tactics and results. 

Carp Species

There are of course a variety of carp species that fly anglers target. The most popular are:

• Common Carp: Found in waters all over the U.S. 
• Grass Carp: Found in Midwest and Northeast and in several waters in the West
• Koi Carp: Ornamental species often found in city ponds

Sight Fishing for Carp

There are some anglers out there who will tell you they routinely catch carp on the fly blind, meaning they only feel the take. I say that’s rubbish. Is it impossible? No, but it’s never happened for me. Likewise, the fun of fly fishing for carp is that it’s visual. It’s a sight-fishing game, hence the comparisons to saltwater redfish and the nickname “golden bonefish.”

A carp’s mouth is far more sensitive than most fish. That heightened sense of feel is what helps them determine if the morsel they just sucked out of the mud is, in fact, food. This is why European carp anglers have gone to such great lengths to develop rigs that either hide the hook in the bait entirely or have it floating on the leader just above the bait. In less than a second, despite violently Hoovering up a bait or fly, a carp will feel the metal and spit it out. 

READ NEXT: Will U.S. Waters Ever Be Managed as Trophy Carp Fisheries?

Therefore, it’s critical that you physically see the carp inhale your fly and strike quickly. It would be rare for one to suck up something entirely artificial that doesn’t feel or taste natural and swim off with it long enough for the tension to transmit through the fly line. This is also why it’s rare to target carp on the fly in water more than a few feet deep. Barring scenarios like berries dropping from a tree or a cicada hatch where carp feed on the surface, you’re going to be fishing subsurface and you need to be able to see your fly—or at least know roughly where it is—at all times. 

Finding Active Carp

Most gamefish like bass or trout can be coaxed into a predatory feeding response even if they’re not actively looking for food. Carp aren’t really gamefish and that rule doesn’t apply to them at all. This tends to trip up a lot of newer carp fly anglers, because it’s not uncommon to come upon a pile of carp hovering just under the surface in deep water, or swimming around in a river hole. At first glance, you might think you just hit the jackpot, but 99% of the time you’re going to pull your hair out with these “neutral” carp. You’ll plop flies in front of them for hours only to have them spook or swim right by your bug without even looking in its direction. It’s very difficult to make carp eat if they aren’t already eating.

When you first start fly fishing for carp, it’s crucial that you seek out actively feeding fish, even if that means walking away from 20 hoverers to locate one feeder. When carp are actively rooting around on the bottom, their guard is down. They’re less discerning and less focused on your presence. Ideally, you’ll find some fish working in 2 feet of water or less. A dead giveaway of a “hot” fish is when its tail is breaking the surface and its body is arced down. Puffs of mud or silt that it’s kicking up as it feeds will trail behind it. When you see doing this, your goal is to land a fly on the bottom in that carp’s path. The challenge, of course, is that they don’t always move in a straight line, and even when one does collide with your fly, there’s no guarantee it’s going to gobble it up. 

Even if you don’t find hardcore grubbers, carp swimming around in shallow water are generally there to feed, and far more likely to take a swing at your bug than those in deeper water. In moving water, long, slow, flat stretches are prime feeding zones, as are side channels and eddies with minimal flow. In lakes and ponds, find the cove or corner that’s the shallowest. You can’t bank on the carp being in those zones during every visit, but it’s where you’ll need them to be for maximum success on the fly. It’s important to frequent carp spots often, because you can begin to figure out their routine. You might notice that they are feeding shallow most often just after sunup or at midday. You may notice that they feed harder after a slight bump in flow. Behavior will change seasonally, but there is always a loose pattern you can follow.

Best Flies for Carp Fishing

As it goes with selecting flies for any species, the perfect ones will vary by location and situation. There are certainly cases where carp may dine on a niche food source only available seasonally or regionally, but my intention here is to provide a jumping off point. These flies have worked for me in many parts of the country, and while you may develop or find patterns more fine-tuned for your area, these will score some eats whether you’re flinging them in a neighborhood pond or clear backwoods river. 

Salmon Egg

Cabela’s

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If I could only choose one fly for carp, it would be the classic salmon egg. This, of course, is most potent for “neighborhood” carp and less so for those “wild carp,” but it’ll fool both based on color. I’ve had lots of success on white and tan eggs. Yellow looks just like a kernel of sweet corn. In pink or purple, a salmon egg becomes a berry. Regardless, a tiny round egg simply looks like some kind of food and if you land one in front of enough faces, it’ll eventually get vacuumed. I’ve also found that eggs with some sparkle can be highly effective, and other times the sparkle seems to be a turn-off, so carry some of each.

Sucker Spawn 

Feeder Creek

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Sucker spawn works well for the same reason as salmon eggs—it comes in a wide variety of colors and represents a generic morsel that might taste good. Sucker spawn, however, tends to be bigger and fluffier than a salmon egg. This is beneficial when carp are simply more tuned into a bigger target, but it also has a nice, slow sink rate after it gets saturated, and it’s not uncommon for fish to suck it up on the fall. 

Squirmy Wormy

Cabela’s

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It’s hard to even call this worm pattern a true fly because it’s made of a very stretchy soft plastic material. It’s got so much wiggle that it’s considered cheating when used for trout. But I never feel bad about using one for carp, because any carp eat is a good one. This worm’s sexy undulation can really trip their triggers. As a carp approaches, I just give the rod a gentle twitch to make my worm wag ever so slightly. It often gets the fish to commit instantly.

Hare’s Ear Nymph

White River Fly Shop

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The beauty of hare’s ears is that they are available in many sizes and colors that can represent a plethora of mud-dwelling foods “wild” and wary carp tend to eat. In brown or rust, the fly can present a tiny crayfish. In black it’s a stonefly larva. In olive it’s an emerging damsel fly. 

Wooly Bugger

Perfect Hatch

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Like the hare’s ear, buggers are available in lots of natural colors that mimic a variety of carp forage. Granted, the larger size of this fly means it’s usually reserved for larger fish, but they’re worth carrying for a few reasons. Their thick hackle feathers move mud and water, so if you twitch one on the bottom, it’ll make enough commotion that an approaching carp won’t miss it. The long shank hooks that buggers are tied on also increase the odds of landing a big fish, should you happen to stick one. 

Crazy Charlie

Crazy Charlie Saltwater

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Here’s the truth—you won’t use this fly very often when fly fishing for carp, but when you do get that chance, you won’t forget it. The Crazy Charlie is a bonefish fly, but in tan, orange, or brown, it’s a killer baby crawfish imitation. If you ever encounter carp on a flat grubbing the bottom and moving quickly, there’s a good possibility they’re actively chasing crayfish. Lay out this fly and wait for a fish to get near it, then start stripping it along the bottom. Carp in the right frame of mind will charge it down like a pike and the eat won’t be dainty or subtle.

The post Beginner’s Guide to Fly Fishing for Carp appeared first on Outdoor Life.

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